An of the Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde · 2017. 3. 29. · Euromodel - Friedrich Wilhelm Zu Pferde...

Euromodel - Friedrich Wilhelm Zu Pferde HULL CONSTRUCTION.03

1

TRANSLATION LINKS 1. type into your browser ... english+italian+glossary+nautical terms

2. utilise the translation dictionary ‘Nautical Terms & Expressions’ from

Euromodel website

An interpretive build

of the

Friedrich Wilhelm

zu Pferde 17th. Century German Frigate

Launched 1684

Scale 1:48

HULL CONSTRUCTION.03

This resource information was based on the original text supplied by Euromodel and

then expanded in detail as the actual ship was constructed by the author, Peter

Coward. Neither the author or Euromodel have any commercial interest in this

information and it is published on the Euromodel web site in good faith for other

persons who may wish to build this ship. Euromodel does not accept any

responsibility for the contents that follow.

My interpretive build is based on the supplied drawings, the kit

material – and an amount of extra material.

This work only illustrates how this ship might be built.The level of

complexity chosen is up to the individual

Checked the

Essential Resource

Information File ?

Sit Back & Read

Background Information

‘Advanced Resources for

Shipbuilding’


2

This is NOT an instructional manual but

illustrates my own interpretation based on

the drawings and the supplied kit.

Additional material used was dictated by my own personal choices.

Greater simplification would be achieved by using the material as it is supplied.

Reference Texts Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld (1989)

Seventeenth Century Rigging by R.C. Anderson (1955) [almost a complete copy of his earlier book The

Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600 – 1720 (1927) ]

The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650-1850 by Peter Goodwin (1984)

The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625 – 1860 by James Lee (1984).

Growing Specific Shapes


3

[To navigate through the contents – use ‘control + click’]

Contents

Chapter 1: SOME SIGNIFICANT DECISIONS ............................................................................ 6

Which Came First: Quarter Galleries or Second Planking? ....................................................... 6

Which Came First: Wales or Second Planking? ......................................................................... 7

Hull Colour Finish ...................................................................................................................... 8

Chapter 2: STEERAGE .................................................................................................................. 9

Steerage ....................................................................................................................................... 9

Alternative 1: Supplied Rudder............................................................................................... 9

Post Dimension ..................................................................................................................... 10

Chapter 3: SECOND PLANKING ................................................................................................ 12

Stern .......................................................................................................................................... 12

Wale Positioning Overview .................................................................................................. 12

Wale Fixing ........................................................................................................................... 13

Hull Sides .................................................................................................................................. 14

Wale Curvature ..................................................................................................................... 15

First Wale Positioning ........................................................................................................... 16

First Wale Fixing .................................................................................................................. 17

First Set of Second Planking ................................................................................................. 17

Planking Above First Wale ................................................................................................... 18

Second Wale ......................................................................................................................... 18

Planking Below Second Wale ............................................................................................... 19

Bottom Wale ......................................................................................................................... 20

Planking Below the Bottom Wale ......................................................................................... 20

Painting Below the Water Line ................................................................................................. 22

Support Stand for Upright Ship ................................................................................................ 23

Chapter 4: GUN PORTS ............................................................................................................... 24

Gun Deck Gun Ports ................................................................................................................. 24

Jig .......................................................................................................................................... 24

Building & Finishing ............................................................................................................ 24

Batten Lining ......................................................................................................................... 25

Main Deck Gun Ports ................................................................................................................ 27

Chapter 5: UPPER DECK CONSTRUCTION ............................................................................. 28

Gun Carriage Placement ........................................................................................................... 28

Main Deck Installation .............................................................................................................. 29

Beneath Quarter Deck ........................................................................................................... 31

Beneath Forecastle Deck ....................................................................................................... 32


4

Illustrations [The figures below are not hyperlinked]

Figure 2: 'Before' Approach ............................................................................................................ 6

Figure 3: 'After' Image - End Ornament Strip Hiding any Fitting Errors ........................................ 6

Figure 4: Two Different Wale Sizes ............................................................................................... 7

Figure 5: One Example of Placing Wales Over Second Planking .................................................. 7

Figure 6: Sweep & Tiller................................................................................................................. 9

Figure 7: Rudder Pendant ............................................................................................................... 9

Figure 8: Stem Dimension ............................................................................................................ 10

Figure 9: Pintle Positioning........................................................................................................... 10

Figure 10: Tiller Projection Through Rudder Post ....................................................................... 11

Figure 11: Typical Rudder Bearding ............................................................................................. 11

Figure 12: Rudder - Pendant Rope Attachment ............................................................................ 11

Figure 13: Stern Second Planking ................................................................................................. 12

Figure 14: Curvature & Positioning of Stern Wale ....................................................................... 12

Figure 15: Wale Cross-Section ..................................................................................................... 13

Figure 16: Wale Omissions ........................................................................................................... 13

Figure 17: Wale Nomenclature ..................................................................................................... 14

Figure 18: Producing the First Curvature Along the Wale Length ............................................... 15

Figure 19: Forming the First Wale Curvature Around the Bow ................................................... 15

Figure 20: Curvature Preparation on the Bow Section of the Second Wale. ................................ 15

Figure 21: Clamping a Moist Wale in Position............................................................................. 16

Figure 22: Incorrect Wale Placement ............................................................................................ 16

Figure 23: Wale Cross-Section ..................................................................................................... 16

Figure 24: First Two Steps in Second Planking ............................................................................ 17

Figure 25: Clamping the First Second Plank Around Bow Section .............................................. 17

Figure 26: Third Step in Second Planking .................................................................................... 18

Figure 27: Wale Clamps ............................................................................................................... 18

Figure 28: Fourth Step in Second Planking .................................................................................. 18

Figure 29: Clamping Second Wale in Position ............................................................................. 18

Figure 30: Fifth Step in Second Planking ..................................................................................... 19

Figure 31: Fixing Plank Beneath Second Wale ............................................................................ 19

Figure 32: Sixth Step in Second Planking .................................................................................... 20

Figure 33: Second Planking Towards the False Keel ................................................................... 20

Figure 34: Partial Tapering of Second Planking Towards Bow .................................................... 21

Figure 35: Planking Stealers ......................................................................................................... 21

Figure 36: Marking the Water Line............................................................................................... 22

Figure 37: Surface Preparation Using a Base Coat ....................................................................... 22

Figure 38: Upright Support Stand ................................................................................................. 23

Figure 39: Gun Port Dimensioning for Gun Deck ........................................................................ 24

Figure 40: Using the Gun Port Jig ................................................................................................ 24

Figure 41: Using a Sanding Stick.................................................................................................. 24

Figure 42: Unlined Gun Port ......................................................................................................... 25

Figure 43: Batten Lining Sequence ............................................................................................... 25

Figure 44: Cutting Gun Port Battens ............................................................................................. 25


5

Figure 45: Framing the Gun Deck Ports ....................................................................................... 26

Figure 46: Main Deck Gun Port Positioning/ Dimension ............................................................. 27

Figure 47: Cannon Projection ....................................................................................................... 28

Figure 48: Gun Deck Carriages in Position .................................................................................. 28

Figure 49: Main Deck Installation ................................................................................................ 29

Figure 50: Longitudinal Slot for Main Deck Insertion ................................................................. 29

Figure 51: Supporting Block for Main Deck ................................................................................ 30

Figure 52: Main Deck Fixed in Position ....................................................................................... 30

Figure 53: Needle Threader in Use ............................................................................................... 31

Figure 54: Main Mast Bollard Rigging ......................................................................................... 31

Figure 55: Bollard Rigging (Main Mast) ...................................................................................... 31

Figure 56: Foremast Bollard Rigging............................................................................................ 32

Figure 57: Foremast Bollard Rigging Variation ........................................................................... 32

Figure 58: Bollard & Capstan Rigging ......................................................................................... 32


6

Figure 1: 'Before' Approach

Figure 2: 'After' Image - End Ornament Strip Hiding any

Fitting Errors

Chapter 1: SOME SIGNIFICANT DECISIONS

Which Came First: Quarter Galleries or Second Planking? Initially, it was decided to build the quarter galleries first, fix them in position and then work the second

planking around them, thus producing a neat fit between the two. However, examination of the following

photos shows how a ‘before’ and ‘after’ of fitting the galleries over the second planking will produce a

satisfactory outcome. So the the wales (and planks) were fixed in position first before attaching the

galleries - in theory would make their fixing more straightforward.

Two Different Approaches Illustrate

the Individuality of Ship Building ...

Fig. 2 has used less of the supplied metal

ornamentation; pronounced edges between

upper & lower sections; ‘clinker’ effect well

carved.

Fig. 3 has used all of supplied metal

ornamentation; ‘blurred’ edge between upper

and lower sections; ‘clinker’ effect less

effective with convex plank surfaces; gallery

window inclination different to drawings.


7

Figure 3: Two Different Wale Sizes

Figure 4: One Example of Placing Wales Over Second Planking

Which Came First: Wales or Second Planking?

It is common for builders to first position the 1 x 6 mm.

planking over the entire hull surface and to then add the

wales. That is not a criticism and indeed appears to be the

easiest approach. However, what can then happen is that

the lines of planking may not correspond to the wale lines

(Fig. 5). The historically correct drawing in Fig. 4 shows

the wales and the other planks fitting against each other

(wales were put in position first on actual ships). The other

reason for putting wales in first is that their greater

thickness will invariably require some clamping in position

and the first planking becomes an ideal platform to screw

clamps into without worrying about the screw holes.

NOTE: The ship needed to be totally inverted during much of the

second planking (e.g. Fig. 31)


8

‘natural wood’

kit- supplied limewood substituted with walnut ?

limewood stained with wood colour ?

limewood painted (e.g. green)

Hull Colour Finish There are two schools of thought …..

The timber used produces a natural beauty in its own right and thus should be finished with only

a simple transparent sealant, or …

The historical approach should be utilized since every part of the structure follows that dictate.

Plan Sheet 2 illustrates the historical finish.

Although most models appear to be left in their natural wood colour, this build went with

the Euromodel suggested colour scheme. The diagram below is far from complete but the

colour ‘patches’ give an indication of my interpretation.

Of particular note is the treatment of the hull below the water line. There was an essential coating to help

protect the vessel from infestation of the Toledo woodworm and other parasites. The coating was

composed of many different mixtures that included tar, waxes and various pigments thus finishing up as

anything from black through shades of brown, yellow, cream to white. An off-white was chosen.

The quarter gallery finish poses a problem in that the builder – to be true to the drawings – needs

to create a ‘natural wood’ colour. This could be achieved by carving walnut instead of the

supplied limewood, laminating the limewood with planking material, staining the limewood or

alternatively, painting the whole surface with a paint such as dark green.

The above diagram requires some fine adjustment of colours but serves to illustrate the designer’s

intentions in creating the drawings for this ship.

oro antico antique gold (metal ornamentation)

giallo ocra yellow ochre

rosso vivo bright red

verde marcio dark green

bianco white, etc. (below water line)

legno noce natural wood

nero black (wales)


9

Figure 6: Rudder Pendant

Figure 5: Sweep & Tiller

whipstaff

gooseneck

tiller

Chapter 2: STEERAGE

This was an opportune time to look at the rudder and tiller in detail since its structure relates

closely to how the stern is completed.

Steerage

Alternative 1: Supplied Rudder The supplied blade is already laser-cut to shape including that

required for the fitting of the pintles (‘rudder irons’). With

their gudgeon pins, the pintles fit into the stem post pintles of

the hull. These pintles completely wrap around the rudder.

There is also a metal decoration to be placed on the top of the

rudder post (Fig. 7).

The rudder was modified by :

tapering,

representing rudder as made from a group of timbers,

adding a tiller arm.

These aspects could all have been ignored but they are shown

in the drawings.

Rudder Pendants At the second rudder iron down, an eye pin and ring were

inserted on each side to anchor the rudder pendants (ropes

that could be used in the event of tiller damage). Where the

1.0 mm. pendant rope passes through the hull, they would be

glued in position.

During the 16th and 17th centuries, the larger ships were

commonly steered through a ‘sweep/ whipstaff’ – a tall

vertical beam connected to the tiller through a

‘gooseneck’ - a metal ring acting as a swivel bearing.

The helmsman could be found standing on the Main

Deck looking out onto the Quarter Deck or taking

directions from another crew member.


10

Figure 8: Pintle Positioning

Positioning the Pintles The pintle (‘rudder iron’) positions –

shaded blue’ - from the drawing in

Plan Sheet 2 are correct BUT the

‘bearding’ laser cut-outs do not take

this into account. The hinge/gudgeon

pin components of the pintel need to

be placed into the cut-outs or the

rudder assembly will be too far out

from the stern post. In order to leave

the correct bearding spaces, it was

necessary to extend the cut-out for

each pintel position – shown in Fig.

8 with yellow pattern areas.

Figure 7: Stem

Dimension

129 mm.

Post Dimension With the false keel and stern post installed, it was decided to check the

dimension indicated in Fig. 8 against the actual build and a disparity was found

– there was a need to shorten that overall dimension to 129 mm.

Alternative 2: Modified Rudder

In Plan Sheet 2, there is a drawing [ ‘vista della poppa’] that indicates

tapering of the rudder. The following vertical tapers were used ...

aft edge from 10 mm. to 5 mm.

inner edge from 10 mm. to 8.6 mm.

There are a number of choices that could be made ...

Historically, the rudder was made up with three or four lengths

bolted together, each one stepped down in a "hance" to the rudder

post. So deep lines were cut down either side of the blade to

simulate the use of three timbers in creating the rudder blade.

Near the top of the rudder, a 3.5 mm. square hole for the tiller arm

was produced. For the sake of completion, I produced a 2.5 mm.

‘tiller arm’ projection out from

the rudder – a total length of

6.0 mm. allowed the projection

to fit into the rudder post (refer

to the object shaded pink in Fig.

10). A vertical pin (brass rod)

was inserted through the tiller

projection adjacent to the

rudder post (shaded green).


11

bearding

Figure 10: Typical

Rudder Bearding

Figure 9: Tiller Projection Through

Rudder Post

For completeness, a short length of the tiller arm was

constructed that projected into the hull (shaded yellow).

With the pintles in place, the ornamental head was not placed on top of the rudder until the

rudder was finally in place.

Rudder Pendants At the second rudder iron down, an eye pin and ring were inserted on each side to anchor the rudder

pendants and where the 1.0 mm. pendant rope passed through the hull, two 3 mm. brass ‘portholes’ were

used.

Figure 11: Rudder - Pendant Rope Attachment

The eye pin + ring attaches the pendant rope to the rudder and

is often anchored through a metal strap such as a metal pintle

for added strength and not just the wood. Plan Sheet 2

appears to show this (not sure where pin is located – could be

just off the pintle but it was assumed that it WAS

passing through the pintle).


12

Figure 12: Stern Second Planking

Chapter 3: SECOND PLANKING

Stern

Perhaps guided by the sweeping lines of the second planking along

the hull sides, the stern second planking was totally ignored until

after the sides were completed.

In hindsight, it would have been logical to

complete the stern surface first.

This is abundantly clear in Figs. 13 & 14.

Wale Positioning Overview The stern wale (2 x 8 mm.) was curved using the same method for the side wales as shown in Fig. 18 in

the following pages. Fig. 13 however shows no curvature in the wale but without this shape it is not

possible to follow the correct positioning on the stern. Different drawing views of the stern wale in

relation to the side wales showed a variation in positioning but Fig. 14 hopefully clarifies the stance that

was taken.

Figure 13: Curvature & Positioning of Stern Wale

wale level with

top of stern post

Wale

partly

overlaps

width of

second

wale

stem

wale


13

Figure 14: Wale Cross-Section

Figure 15: Wale Omissions

Wale Fixing The stern wale – attached in two halves – was fixed in position before adding the second planking (Fig.

14).

The drawings show a large number of bolt or metal spike heads

visible on the wale and these were simulated by using brass nails

(Fig. 15) – an optional step , as the nails are not supplied in the

kit. After final curving of the wale and the timber had dried, holes

were drilled for the brass nails that were to be inserted along the

wale length.

The top and bottom outer edges of the wales were rounded.

When and how the curved side strips are added (blue arrow in Fig. 13 and blue shading in Fig. 14) to

cover the ends of the side wales is a matter of choice (and ingenuity)

Diagonal Planking Reference back to Fig. 14 (Plan

Sheet 2) describes what was needed

below the wale.

Other builds observed used different

approaches including …

wale omitted (Fig. 16)

wale and planking above

being straight.

In the end, many choices can be made to simplify and/or modify the drawings.

Also note that the excellent build shown in Fig. 16 is also missing the bottom wale along the side and yet

without pointing this out, such a fact is easily overlooked.

Yet another example of an individual approach that still produces a great outcome.

Curved Planking (above stern wale) This required more than a little care with the lengths being immersed into ammonia solution and then

placed into a shaped press, an example of which is seen in Fig. 18.

The positioning and fixing of

the stern wale forms a

valuable reference point for

the positioning of the side

wales – something that was not

appreciated until after

completing the side wales first !


14

Hull Sides

Wale Referencing for this Build

There are two different wale strips shown in Fig. 4:

2 x 8 x 760 mm. (shaded blue)

2 x 5 x 760 mm. (shaded red)

Alternative 1: Fixing Wales Over Second Planking Most builders use the approach of fitting the wales over the second planks. Fig. 5 above illustrates one

such method although it does show that there is no relationship between the alignment of wales vs

planks. To be honest, the majority of people viewing this ship model would not see this as a problem.

However, it was decided to adhere to the historical method of construction as described above.

Postcript Comment

After completing the second planking, it was evident that the

curving of the wales was not without its difficulty and the

availability of the exposed first planking for screwing into with

clamps was VERY useful. Refer to Fig. 29

Alternative 2: Wales with Second Planking in Between Before adding the first wale, its positioning in relation to the positioning of the quarter gallery became a

critical factor. This method was not without its difficulties – the positioning of the wales and then butting

the planks against them may have been the ideal BUT it did require much more effort in creating suitable

curves for the planks. A much slower method that required far more clamping than with placing the

planks on first and following the more natural contours. The rationale behind Alternative 2 is that

historically the planking was composed of short lengths and here I was using continuous lengths.

Nevertheless, this method achieved what I wanted – planks following the wale contours.

LOWEST WALE

SECOND WALE

FIRST WALE

TOP WALE

Figure 16: Wale Nomenclature


15

Figure 17: Producing the First Curvature Along the Wale Length

Figure 18: Forming the First Wale Curvature Around the Bow

Figure 19: Curvature Preparation

on the Bow Section of the Second

Wale.

Wale Curvature Curvature, Part 1 The four 2 x 8 mm. wales required a significant amount of bending to create the longitudinal curvature

along the hull. After soaking the strips in water overnight, I carefully forced them into a specially

designed press (Fig. 18 below) which allowed the timbers to dry out producing the required curve. A

‘rule of thumb’ applies here in that the designed curvature should be slightly greater than what is shown

in the drawings – the dried timber is then more likely to have the curve required.

Curvature, Part 2 From past experience, I decided to

create a curve in the wales for fitting

around the bow before fitting.

Soaking in dilute ammonia solution

for approx. 5 days, fitting into a press

as shown in Fig. 9 and allowing to

dry produced this second curvature

close to the desired result.

Curvature, Part 3

Parts 1 & 2 described above were sufficient for the ‘First

Wale’curvature. However, for the ‘Second’ and ‘Bottom’ Wales, even

though the desired curve was produced around the bow, that section

now required considerable bending to fit the downward slope of the

curved bow. Soaking in dilute ammonia solution for approx. 5 days

followed by clamping in position (Fig. 21) over the first planking

proved necessary. This is discussed further on the following pages.


16

Figure 20: Clamping a Moist Wale in Position

Prow Deck

Figure 21: Incorrect Wale Placement

Figure 22: Wale Cross-Section

First Wale Positioning

Whilst Plan Sheet 2 is self explanatory

for positioning the 2 x 8 mm. wales, the

following commentary might be useful.

* The first wale positioning worked on

was the one immediately above the Gun

Deck gunports and this required a

considerable amount of clamping around

the bow following the soaking in

ammonia solution (see previous

comment).

This wale was approx. 9.3 mm. below

the plywood covered Prow Deck (not

yet planked).

The lower pencil line in Fig. 21 shows the bottom edge of the bottom wale. The distance between this

line and the upper edge of the wale that is clamped in position was a constant 45.2 mm.

In Fig. 22 (from another build), the

lower wale is inclined upwards instead

of being parallel to both the wale above

and the Prow Deck.

Preliminary Preparations

The drawings show a large number of bolt or metal spike heads visible on the wales and these were

simulated by using brass nails (Fig. 23) – an optional step , as the nails are not supplied in the kit.

After final curving of the wale (clamping in position around

the bow) and the timber had dried, holes were drilled for the

brass nails that were to be inserted along the wale length.

The top and bottom outer edges of the wales were rounded.

The wale end adjacent to the beakhead was adjusted for a

close fit.


17

Figure 24: Clamping the First Second Plank Around Bow Section

First Wale Fixing Wale was painted matt black.

The wale immediately above the bottom row of Gun Deck gunports was fixed in position. One

useful aspect of drilling holes in the wale was that the curved wale around the bow was readily

glued in position using the nails that had to be inserted anyway. Whilst not included in the kit,

the nails proved invaluable in fixing the wale in position.

First Set of Second Planking Below the first fixed wale, the three second planking strips – collectively forming the required

wale separation of 18 mm. – needed to be fixed. The planks fitting around the bow were soaked

in water first (around 150 – 200mm. only).

As Fig. 25 shows,

the first of the

soaked planks was

then dry-fitted and

clamped to form the

correct shape. I

could have begun

using ‘stealers’ but

wanted to maintain

continuity of the

planks. After drying

for 24 hours, this

was then fixed in

position.

The second and third second planks were then fixed in a similar fashion. It was expedient to

scrape over the surface of these planks with a flat, sharp blade to flatten the abutting edges.

Careful sanding finished this surface preparation.

The lower gun port openings needed to be carefully opened up.

STEP TWO: 3 second

planks (diagrammatic)

STEP ONE: first wale

Figure 23: First Two Steps in Second Planking


18

Figure 26: Wale Clamps

Second wale

in position.

Figure 27: Fourth Step in Second Planking

Planking Above First Wale

The width between this

wale and the one above was

less than two plank widths.

I decided to carefully cut a

plank longitudinally into

halves. This with a full

plank gave me the correct

width.

i.e. 5.9 + 2.9 mm. = 8.8

mm.

Second Wale This wale was far more difficult to curve and fix in position than the

previous wale and soaking in ammonia solution for 48 hours proved

essential. Even so, special clamps (Fig. 27) were devised with long

screws to allow the necessary tension for the downward curve to be

created.

As discussed for the first wale,

rounded edges and holes for the

heads of the fixing bolts were

two optional techniques that

were continued here for this

second wale (and subsequent

ones). Air-drying for 48 hours

followed before fixing in place.

Figure 28: Clamping Second Wale in Position

Packers

underneath

clamps were

wedge-shape to

allow for hull

curvature.

One and a

half second

planks fixed

above the

wale.

Figure 25: Third Step in Second Planking


19

Figure 30: Fixing Plank Beneath Second Wale

Planking Below Second

Wale

The width between this wale and the

lowest one was less than two plank

widths. It was decided to carefully cut

a plank longitudinally into halves.

This with a full plank gave me the

correct width.

i.e. 5.9 + 2.9 mm. = 8.8 mm.

Both planks required soaking to soften the timber - the full width plank required a large number of

closely spaced clamps around the bow section to form the curve (before fixing). Refer to Fig. 20 below.

The full-width plank was fixed against the second wale followed by the half-width. It was found

that the narrow length was more fragile and then pressing the bottom wale against it caused some

damage to the edge.

Conclusion: It would have been better to glue the half-width length on first (Fig. 30 above).

A small problem was that with the wood being so moist, indentations were made into the timber around

the bow curvature during the drying process. These were largely removed by sanding before fixing in

position.

One and a half

second planks

fixed below the

second wale.

Figure 29: Fifth Step in Second Planking


20

Figure 32: Second Planking Towards the False Keel

false keel

Bottom Wale

This wale proved to require the

largest amount of curvature of all the

wales. The tension necessary to

create the curves formed a number of

‘wrinkles’ which needed sanding

smooth but even so the finished form

looked good.

Planking Below the Bottom Wale It is in this bottom area that any one of a number of planking techniques could be utilized. In this build

the lower section of the hull would be almost entirely painted and thus the planking arrangement would

largely go unseen. Many will be reticent to hide the beautiful walnut planking but why build such a

beautiful ship and ignore what is historically correct ?

A few comments ...

1. Plank Clamping Fig. 33 below illustrates the need to use a large number of closely spaced planking screws.

The devices used needed to be raised at the shorter end by small pieces of first planking

scrap that are slightly thicker than the second planks being held down in position. This way,

an even tension was applied across the second plank’ greatly lessening the amount of

scraping/ sanding needed for the finished hull to become a smooth surface.

Bottom wale

Figure 31: Sixth Step in Second Planking


21

2. Full vs. Tapered, Shorter Lengths

In a perfect model, most planks would be tapered at each end but in my build, a mix of tapered and

untapered lengths were used.

3. Stealers

The natural flow of planks towards the stern meant that stealers (short tapered planking inserts)

were needed. Fig. 35 below illustrates this with the shaded blue inserts.

Figure 33: Partial Tapering of Second Planking Towards Bow

Figure 34: Planking Stealers


22

Figure 35: Marking the Water Line

block has

already been

used prior to

painting automotive masking tape

Figure 36: Surface Preparation Using a Base Coat

Painting Below the Water Line Historically, painting of the lower hull was necessary in order to preserve the ship, especially against

attack from the Teredo ‘worm’ – a soft bodied clam with a long, thin body that would bore into the

timber. All sorts of combinations of tars, waxes and pigments were utilized that resulted in a range of

colours from black through browns, yellows, cream to white.

From Plan Sheet 2, it was noted that the

water line at the stern was 83.0 mm above

the bottom prior to the fitting of the false

keel, whilst at the bow, the height was only

77.5 mm. It was decided to support the bow

end of the keel on a block that was 5.5 mm.

in height. This then allowed for a pencil

point to be marked along the entire hull

length using a supporting frame of a fixed

height (Fig. 36 opposite). I chose plastic

building blocks but any material would

suffice.

The specific height chosen will

depend on the precise position of

the bottom edge of the lowest wale.

Figure 37 also shows that the painting has

commenced (with a white primer paint). A

sharp edge between the painted area and the

exposed timber planks can be very difficult to

achieve but I overcame this problem by

purchasing some narrow masking tape used by

automotive spray painters. This tape is very

flexible and can be easily adjusted to any

curved shape. It adheres strongly to most

surfaces and if removed soon after painting

has been completed, leaves a very sharp edge.


23

Support Stand for Upright Ship

Having worked on the inverted ship, it was time to support the ship in an upright

position. Fig 38 below shows the use of waste material including scrap carpet pieces. No

further comment necessary !

Figure 37: Upright Support Stand


24

Figure 39: Using the Gun Port Jig

Figure 40: Using a Sanding Stick

Chapter 4: GUN PORTS

Gun Deck Gun Ports

Jig This jig constructed from scrap wood was used for the bottom edge determination of each gun port for

the Gun Deck. It also showed the correct dimensions of the gun port (Fig. 39) –especially the width.

These dimensions allow for the battening that lines the gun port openings. The 55 mm. barrels were

designed to fit at the mid-point of the openings (vertical red line in Fig. 39).

Building & Finishing

With the jig as a guide, the openings

can be cut out and squared using a

myriad of approaches.

With the cut opening slightly less than it should

be, the final finishing to size was achieved in this

build using sanding sticks – slightly undersized

timber with sandpaper glued to two adjacent

sides (Fig. 41). Careful use of these ‘sticks’ will

produce a neat opening of the correct

dimensions. Every corner of each gun port was

checked for its ‘sharpness’.

Second planking was not used on the internal

walls of the Gun Deck but instead painted them a

dark brown.

Figure 38: Gun Port Dimensioning for Gun Deck

A = 18 mm.

B = 16 mm.

C = 16 mm.

N.B. ‘C’ will depend

on your carriage

construction

A

Gun Deck

B

C


25

Figure 41: Unlined Gun Port

1

2

3

4

Figure 42: Batten Lining Sequence

actual width of gun

port opening

created

length cut off

with a sharp

blade

Figure 43: Cutting Gun Port Battens

Batten Lining Going by the drawings (and historically), each port needed to be lined

with timber. However, Fig. 42 illustrates that not all builders choose

to do this.

The ports were lined with battens 1 mm. thick timber in a

sequence as shown in Fig. 43 – not my build. In the build

shown, the thickness appears larger than 1 mm. Without

detracting from the Euromodel drawings which were executed

in the pre-CAD days, slight variations can be determined using

digital vernier calipers. It can be argued that there is a variation

between 1.0 and 1.5 mm. but I had no hesitation is using the

supplied 1.0 mm. walnut strips. Your call if you want to

change that!

Since it had been decided to ‘double plank’ with the first

planking and then line both inner and outer surfaces with

second planking, the combined thickness above the Gun Deck

was approx. 4.5 mm. The Gun Deck itself only had the single first planking but for all gun port batten

linings, I used 1 x 5 mm. for the sake of uniformity.

The method of cutting

the battens was very

simple (Fig. 44).


26

Figure 44: Framing the Gun Deck Ports

A few comments …

frames fixed in place for the Gun Deck (Fig. 45)

hatch covers were then made (see below)

Main Deck – half at a time – was put in position but not fixed. This then allowed a jig to be used

to determine the gun port positions above that deck.


27

Main Deck Gun Ports

How the carriages and cannons were put together has a major influence on how the gun port

positioning is determined. Whether the carriages were modified to more closely resemble the

drawings becomes an important issue. In the end, it is essential that the carriages and cannons are

assembled before making any cut outs in the hull.

In Fig. 46 below, it became obvious that there was a disparity between the position of the top edge of the

Main Deck gun port shown in Plan Sheet 2 and when utilising the actual cannon mounted on its carriage

[the angle at which the photograph of the actual cannon was taken is a little misleading].

The drawing would suggest that the top edge was only 17 mm. above the deck but this simply did not fit

and so the top edge became approx. 21-22 mm. above the deck. This depends on both the carriage

construction and the interpretation of the gun port opening dimensions. The latter varied between 14 to

almost 15 mm.

This fact was not picked up earlier in the build and so the gun port bottom edge was a few millimetres

lower than it should have been.

My calculations suggested that the gun port bottom edge should have been

approx. 7.5 mm. above the deck.

The deck was only temporarily put in place so that the positioning of gun ports could be carried out with

another jig. However, when using a jig, great care must be taken with the fact that it will be seated on a

deck camber and that in itself becomes important in designing the jig shape.

Batten lining followed the same technique as for those in the Gun Deck gun ports.

Figure 45: Main Deck Gun Port

Positioning/ Dimension 15 mm.

actual height

of barrel

centre to deck

floor

working height

between Main Deck

and top of gun port

= 22 mm.

drawing height

between Main

Deck and top of

gun port = 17 mm.

(Plan Sheet 2)

12 mm.

drawing

height of

barrel

centre to

deck floor


28

Figure 46: Cannon Projection

Chapter 5: UPPER DECK CONSTRUCTION

With Gun Deck and Main Deck gun ports cut out and lined, attention was diverted to installing the Main

Deck. There were a few more gun ports to be opened up but most of the debris generated was largely

contained above the Main Deck by using suitable covers.

Gun Carriage Placement The hull thickness shown in the drawings is considerable and nothing like the actual thickness

achieved in a kit model and so an allowance was made for this difference.

Photos studied of other builds showed

immense variation in the length of cannon

projecting from the outer surface so naturally

the drawings dictated that measurement.

From this, I settled on a projection of 16

mm. for both the Gun and Main Decks. This

meant there was a separation of approx. 4

mm. between the carriage and the bulwark

wall. As seen in Fig. 47, there was a

waterway present which would have

prevented the carriage from butting up

against the wall, anyway.

The carriages were fixed in position on the Gun Deck.

Fig. 48 shows the carriages back from the bulwark wall by the 4 mm. mentioned above (shown

by yellow arrow). Critically, what can be seen are holes that were drilled in the carriages for

adding eye pins for the associated tackle but in haste to complete this project, these accessories

were not added – with the hatch covers in place, they would not be observed.

Figure 47: Gun Deck Carriages in Position


29

Main Deck Installation

The adjustment and planking of the Main Deck halves has been covered previously. Deck installation

photo follows ...

double first planking

above Main Deck

bulwark frames removed; planking

done prior to installation BUT

should have covered over open slots

in original plywood base !

double planking allowed a

longitudinal slot (not

visible) into which the deck

piece could be inserted to

hold in correct position

Figure 48: Main Deck Installation

Figure 49: Longitudinal Slot for Main Deck Insertion


30

Figure 50: Supporting Block for Main Deck

Figure 51: Main Deck Fixed in Position


31

Figure 54: Bollard Rigging (Main Mast)

started at eye pin on

side of bollard

finished at

cleat on side

of bollard Figure 53: Main Mast Bollard Rigging

0.6 mm.

diameter

16 mm.

viol block

5 mm.,

2-hole

block

80 mm.

Figure 52: Needle Threader in Use

Beneath Quarter Deck

Bollard Rigging Before this deck was fixed in place over the Main Deck, attention was given to the installation of the

bollard rigging. The thought was that this was going to be difficult with the Main Deck already in place

but surprisingly with a ‘needle threader’ (Fig. 53) and long tweezers, it was easily accomplished (Fig.

55). After completing the rigging, the actual height of the viol block above the bollard was set (Fig. 54)

and then the rope was seized off at the cleat.


32

Figure 56: Foremast Bollard Rigging

Variation

Figure 55: Foremast Bollard Rigging

0.6 mm.

diameter

16 mm.

viol block

5 mm.,

2-hole

block

46 mm.

Beneath Forecastle Deck

Before this deck was fixed in place over the Main Deck, attention

was given to the installation of the main capstan (the anchor

capstan, being midships and completely covered, is not included in

this kit). As described earlier, the style of capstan produced was as

described in the drawings but that was a lot more work and most

builders will opt for using the kit-supplied version.

Foremast bollard - Section 1 described how portion of the top beam

of the adjacent frame was altered to accomodate the bollard.

Bollard rigging - the capstan - bollard - viol block - small block

rigging was completed before the bollard was fixed in position (Fig.

58). Full rigging detail is contained in Plan Sheet 8.

Variations and simplifications are always possible. Fig. 57 shows one

builder who opted out of installing a block (black shading) above the

viol block.

This just reinforces the interpretive nature of these builds.

Figure 57: Bollard & Capstan Rigging


33

An of the Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde · 2017. 3. 29. · Euromodel - Friedrich Wilhelm Zu Pferde...

Documents

Transcript of An of the Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde · 2017. 3. 29. · Euromodel - Friedrich Wilhelm Zu Pferde...