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Istanbul

ONE THING IS FOR SURE, THERE’S NOWHERE QUITE LIKE ISTANBUL

The legendary capital of two of the

world’s greatest empires, built on seven

hills and spanning two continents, has

had many names over the centuries;

nova roma, byzantium, constantinople,

but one thing is for sure, there’s nowhere

quite like Istanbul. Think of the glittering

Bosphorus, Golden Horn and Sea of

Marmara dividing Istanbul into an upside

down ‘Y.” The top two segments are

the European side; to the left is ancient

Sultanahmet stacked with treasures; on

the right are Beyoglu and Nisantasi with

all their shopping and entertainment,

while the bottom segment is the

residential Asian side. And that’s all

you really need to know.

The cult pocket city guides and mobile

apps for the busy, sophisticated traveler

www.luxecityguides.comCITI PRESENTS LUXE CITY GUIDES

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• Have your hotel’s number

on you at ALL times.

• Summer season (and the

best time to visit) is May-Oct, winter

gets cold and snowy. Check dates

ahead to avoid Ramadan if you can,

as the city fasts until sundown

(2012 – July 21st-Aug19th,

2013 – July 10th-Aug 8th).

• Istanbul is seasonal, many places

move premises or close altogether

in winter (and for some of Aug),

so do check ahead to avoid

intense annoyance.

• English is widely spoken in

visitor-frequented areas.

• Ataturk airport to town: 30-60 mins

/ ≈ TL50/€25 by cab.

• Taxis are cheap and plentiful,

but it’s meter on, or get gone!

Or, hire a car and driver.

Blah blah• There is no need to tip cabs

and they have two rates: ‘gunduz’

– day, and ‘gece’ – night (midnight-

6am) which costs double; beware

of rip-off cabs in Sultanahmet who

often attempt to switch the rates.

• Always allow extra time for any

journey, as traffic can be heinous,

even out of rush hours.

• Visa on arrival (EU exempt) –

pay in US$ or euro, cash.

• There’s a smoking ban in all

enclosed public spaces, bars,

cafés and restaurants,

but compliance varies.

• Istanbul is very liberal,

but modest dress is

required nonetheless

when visiting mosques.

• ATMs are numerous and

very easy to find.

• Currency = Turkish Lira (a.k.a. TL/

YTL), euros sometimes accepted but

beware of atrocious exchange rates.

• Caddesi (Cad.) = road,

Sokak (Sok.) = street.

• The dialing code for Istanbul is +90

212 (Euro side) and 216 (Asian side),

all numbers quoted in this guide use

212 unless otherwise specified.

• Directory enq. 118, intl

operator 115, police 155,

intl ambulance 505 7272,

tourist police 528 5369.

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Founder and designer of OYE swimwear,

Ayca Sadikoglu is a lifelong Istanbul

devotee who grew up on the European

bank of the Bosphorus in picturesque

Bebek. Ayca graduated from Johns

Hopkins University with a degree in Art

History and Film & Media Studies. Upon

graduation, she moved to New York City

where she worked for the legendary

Merchant Ivory Productions. Her innate

talents as a designer and her natural

understanding of style came together

after a trip to India and culminated in her

starting the exclusive swimwear label OYE

(which stands for “Open Your Eyes”). As

the brand receives international acclaim

with each new collection, her dazzling

designs continue to turn heads on

beaches and magazine covers

around the world.

www.oyeswimwear.com

LUXE INSIDER

Ayca Sadikoglu

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1) WHERE DO YOU TAKE VISITORS WHEN THEY COME TO VISIT YOU AND WHY?

I find a visit to the Hagia Sophia and a

cool stroll in the Underground Cisterns

immediately across the street to be an

integral part (and the bare minimum)

of any Istanbul trip. Obviously for

those with more time on their hands

and a propensity to stroll, Istanbul

offers many more attractions such as

the exquisite Kariye Museum with its

well-preserved breathtaking Byzantine

mosaics. The Sultan Ahmed Mosque,

also known as the Blue Mosque for

its multitude of blue tiles, is a close

neighbor of the Hagia Sophia and

its Byzantine design elements are

considered to be the culmination

of Ottoman mosque and Byzantine

church development. After a long day

of cultural immersion nothing relaxes

the mind like cocktails on the rooftop

of Mikla in Pera. It has a striking view

of the Old City and the Golden Horn

and the conquests of the day light up

spectacularly at dusk.

www.hagiasophia.com

www.yerebatan.com

www.choramuseum.com

www.bluemosque.co

www.miklarestaurant.com

2) WHO ARE YOUR FAVORITE LOCAL DESIGNERS IN ISTANBUL? WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT THEM?

My favorite local designer is a brand

called ELSE Lingerie. Ever since I

discovered the brand, it has quickly

become one of my favorites. ELSE

Lingerie’s striking designs are extremely

flattering and accentuate just the right

curves. A quick trip to Harvey Nichols is

a must to pick up this lingerie.

www.elselingerie.com

3) WHERE DO YOU GO FOR A PAMPER SESSION, MASSAGE OR SPA TREATMENT?

The 45 minutes “kese” (body scrub)

inside an authentic Turkish bath at Les

Ottomans is the perfect way to pamper

yourself in a unique setting. This

traditional Turkish hammam treatment

begins with a full body scrub and is

followed with a silken foam massage

that cleans and moisturizes your skin.

At the end, you’ll be left with glowing

skin, it’s also a great way to prolong

your tan’s longevity.

www.lesottomans.com

4) WHAT’S THE BEST LOCAL DELICACY IN ISTANBUL, AND WHY AND WHERE IS IT WORTH TRYING?

Lakerda! It is a pickled bonito fish. It

is a quintessential part of the Istanbul

experience to dine at a fish restaurant

and sample this mezze. Tin cans of this

heavenly treat can be sourced from

the grizzled fishmongers in the historic

Fish Market Balik Pazari and certain

sympathetic maître d’s for a princely

sum to smuggle back to your point of

origin as one simply cannot do without

after tasting lakerda.

5) WHAT ARE 3 OF YOUR FAVORITE RESTAURANTS IN ISTANBUL AND WHY? WHAT DISHES DO YOU ORDER AT THESE PLACES?

Karakoy Lokantasi proves a great

selection of appetizers (mezzes)

with exceptional fish courses, with

two standouts in particular; the fish

pastrami (tastes nothing like what the

mind conjures) and the black-eyed peas

in extra lemon sauce are

simply terrific!

www.karakoylokantasi.com

Balikci Sabahattin is an excellent

restaurant run under the ever-watchful

eyes of the most attentive father-son

owners who strive to ensure the quality

and the happiness of the patrons. The

Fener kavurma (braised angler) is a

must!

www.balikcisabahattin.com

Munferit is a completely different

dining experience to the previous

two with a similar cuisine but a lively

after dinner scene in its bar. A very

fun venue with great music and many

patrons finishing up by dancing on top

of the tables! Of course, the food is just

as good and Turkish white cheese en

papillote with porcini mushrooms and

truffle oil is my personal favorite!

www.munferit.com.tr

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Ayca Sadikoglu

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LEB-I-DERYA Dining

Handsome views and a sleek,

contemporary interior of whites and

blond woods is the backdrop for

Leb-i-derya’s Eurasion/Turkish menu

featuring plenty of grilled fish and

meats, with an excellent cocktail list

and elegant, relaxed crowd. Their

sister restaurant and bar just a few

minutes up Istiklal Caddesi has a

lovely, relaxed open terrace for

summer breezes.

MIKLA

Dining

The Turkish and Scandinavian

influences on the international menu

are a delightful treat courtesy of chef

Mehmet Gurs, and while the simple

white linens and square tables are

nothing to write home about, it’s

the rooftop deck and bar view of the

Golden Horn that is the real draw

here. Hands down the best panorama

in town, plus a decent wine list, and

what’s more it’s one of the few places

serving a decent martini.

MUZEDECHANGA Dining

While the vibe may be low-key, the

high-octane flavors of Peter Gordon’s

creative Mediterranean cuisine

perfectly complement this spectacular

glass box salon and its beautiful

water views. It’s worth the journey

for lunch or dinner, and the attached

Sabanci Museum of manuscripts and

calligraphy means you can be cultural

at the same time.

6/F Richmond Hotel / Istiklal Caddesi

227 / Beyoglu / +90 212 243 4375 /

and Kumbaracı Yokusu 57/6 / Tünel /

Beyoglu / +90 212 293 4989

www.lebiderya.com

Marmara Pera Hotel / Mesrutiyet Caddesi

15 / Beyoglu / +90 212 293 5656

www.miklarestaurant.com

Sakip Sabanci Caddesi 42 / Emirgan

/ +90 212 323 0901

www.changa-istanbul.com

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LUXE Loves

BEBEK HOTEL TERRACE Bar

Istanbul has a slew of happening bars

and busy clubs, but when you just want

a quiet, peaceful and romantic cocktail,

you can’t do better than the simple,

waterside terrace at the little, maritime-

themed Bebek Hotel with its delicious

views over the Bosphorus. It really

comes into its own at night, but it’s

good for an afternoon tea too.

SEVAN BICAKCI Shopping

Ottoman and Byzantine-inspired

cufflinks and man-bling plus staggering

unisex cocktail rings, from exquisitely

fine to brash and over-the-top, and all

set in gold, silver and platinum with

semi-precious stones or minutely

detailed miniature portraits. You’ll need

firm arm muscles to lift them, but you’ll

be the belle/beau of the ball when

you do.

YASTIK BY RIFAT OZBEK

Shopping

It’s always lovely to take something

home with you as a memory of your

travels, however a Turkish rug or

kilim can be a tough call in a suitcase!

Far more portable and affordable

are designer Rifat Ozbek’s gloriously

colorful, limited edition cushions,

employing vibrant, traditional fabrics,

but with a swish, contemporary eye. But

beware, they’re addictive – you won’t be

able to leave the store with just one!Bebek Hotel / Cevdet Pasa Caddesi

34 / Bebek / +90 212 358 2000

www.bebekhotel.com.trMolla Fenari Mah. / Gazi Sinan Pasa

Sokak 16 / Cagaloglu / +90

212 520 4516

www.sevanbicakci.com

Sakayık Sokak / Olcay Apt. No:13/1 /

Tesvikiye / Sisli / +90 212 240 8731

www.yastikbyrifatozbek.com

LA MOUETTE

Dining

A summer sunset on the terrace of La

Mouette is one of the greatest pleasures

in the dining firmament of modern

Istanbul. Boasting superb views of

Sultanahmet, the simple wooden chairs

and white napery belie the two young

chefs’ imaginative and disarmingly

fresh take on Turkish classics and fish,

featuring locally sourced ingredients

and passion in spades.

GRAM

Dining

At first glance you’d be forgiven for

thinking this is just a rather delicious

looking bakery, but zip through to the

back and you’ll find the small dining

area of just two communal tables and

fabulous open buffet of light, Turkish

and Mediterranean-inspired salads and

hot dishes. When you consider that chef

Didem Şenol trained at NYC’s Le Cirque

and Eleven Madison Park, you know

you’re in for a treat.

360 Bar

The clue is in the name. With 360° views

stretching over Istanbul and the glinting

Bosphorus, this rooftop staple has been

attracting the crowds for years, but do

be warned, while the view is priceless,

the drinks are expensive and you can

disregard the food altogether. It’s

definitely worth a visit, but arrive early

to beat the crush.

8/F Misir Apartman / Istiklal

Caddesi 311 / Beyoglu /

+90 212 251 1042

www.360istanbul.com

Mesrutiyet Caddesi 107/D / Beyoglu,

/ +90 212 243 1048 / lunch only

noon-3pm

www.gramistanbul.com

Bogazkesen Caddesi / Tomtom Kaptan

Sokak 18 / Beyoglu / +90 212 292 4467

www.lamouetterestaurant.com

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LUXE LovesSOKOLLU MEHMET PASA MOSQUE Activities

If you’re fed up with the milling

millions at the Blue Mosque, for

a charming and altogether more

peaceful experience, head to this

close-by, pretty little mosque built

in 1571 by famed Ottoman architect

Mimar Sinan, whose crowning glory

was the exquisite Suleymaniye

Mosque. There is normally someone

nearby who will run to fetch the key

for you, and bear in mind, that though

entrance is officially free, it is gracious

to make a small donation or buy a

couple of photos to help with

the upkeep.

WITT ISTANBUL SUITES Hotel

We’ve stayed twice in these slick,

suite-only, designer ‘aparthotel’

rooms, elegantly fitted out in

contemporary light timbers with

marble kitchenettes and bathrooms,

and both times were impressed with

the space, style and value for money.

Add free WiFi and complimentary

Turkish breakfast buffet and you’re on

to a winner, and it’s only a five minute

walk to the cute-as-a-bug antiques-

filled Cukurcuma neighborhood.

GEORGES HOTEL Hotel

Istanbul excels in small, casual

but elegant boutique hotels, and

Georges is at the top of the list with

20 super-sleek and stylish rooms

housed in a heritage building in

happening Beyoglu. Add svelte Le

Fumoir restaurant, a handsome bar,

butler service and even in-room yoga,

and you’ve got the perfect base to

discover this ravishing city.

Sehit Cesmesi Sokak, Sultanahmet

Defterdar Yokusu 26 / Cihangir /

Beyoglu / +90 212 293 1500

www.wittistanbul.com

Serdar-I Ekrem Sokak No:24 / Beyoglu

/ +90 212 244 2423

www.georges.com

CHURCH OF THE HOLY SAVIOR IN CHORA Activities

If you liked the mosaics at the Hagia

Sofia, prepare to be blown away by

these. A 20-minute cab ride from

Sultanahmet will reward you with some

of the world’s finest C.14th Byzantine art

and mosaics in a charming and superbly

atmospheric church. And next door at

the Keriye Hotel, you can eat at Asitane,

one of our favorite places for a quiet but

delicious lunch.

Kariye Cami Sokak 6 / Edirnekapi /

+90 212 635 7997

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LUXE LoathesSULTANAHMET TAXI DRIVERS

Notorious for adding extras,

so do watch the meter.

TRAFFIC

It gets worse and worse, day after day –

absolutely avoid getting into a car at peak

times unless you really, really have to.

TAXI SAFETY

Hey guys, ever heard of seat belts?

NEON PRODUCT BRANDING IN CLUBS AND BARS

Deeply uncool and terribly prevalent.

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Fab vs. Drab

CULTURAL HERITAGE

Trying to comprehend the Hagia

Sophia, Blue Mosque or indeed any

of the stunning city monuments on

your own is a tall order, but booking

a personal guided tour and allowing

Context Travel to bring the ancient

city to glittering life before your eyes

is a very smart move.

www.contexttravel.com

CARPET WISE

Buying a carpet or kilim in the Grand

Bazaar is great fun, but heading to

Element and designing your own

unique contemporary floor covering,

hand woven using traditional

techniques is really unique.

www.elementcarpet.com

ARRIVE IN STYLE

Standing in line curbside with

hundreds of other revelers outside

the fabulously popular waterside

nightclubs in summer can be rather

dull, so cut the queues completely and

arrive in super-style by Bosphorus

Water Taxi.

www.deniztaksi.com.tr

HAMMAM

Taking a Turkish bath at any of the

noisy, bustling public hammams along

with swarms of florid tourists is fine if

you’re in the mood, but for something

far more luxurious relax in the luxury

private hammam of the gloriously

peaceful and intimate Ciragan Spa and

Hammam with its own indoor pool.

www.kempinski.com

TRAVEL CHOICES

Being constantly stuck in noisy traffic

on baking summer days is an all-too-

often occurrence in Istanbul, avoid it

and treat yourself into the bargain by

calling VIP Tourism and hiring your

own luxury gulet and setting sail for a

picnic on the shining Bosphorus.

www.vip.com.tr

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In this most romantic of ancient

cities, with its incredible location on

the sparkling Bosphorus, it would be

almost madness not to select a hotel

with frontline views. The Four Seasons

Bosphorus fills the bill perfectly with its

stunning waterside aspect, and amazing

spa, complete with indoor/outdoor pools.

Set off first thing to avoid the legions

and over the bridge you go to the oldest

part of the city, Sultanahmet. Here are

of course all the famous sites like the

Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, but for

a much quieter and peaceful visit to a

mosque make your way to the hidden

Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Mosque (see LUXE

Loves). Completely off the run-of-the-mill

tourist trail, you will very likely have the

place to yourself. A gentle amble through

LUXE ITINERARY

Romance

throbbing Sultanahmet will bring you

to the old Spice Market Misir Carsi. This

fabulously evocative bazaar is packed

to bursting with an overwhelming range

of spices, herbs and candied fruits,

but do look out for the famed and rare

Persian and Russian caviar, and of course,

lokum (Turkish Delight). Handily tucked

up in the eves above the market is the

lovely, turquoise Iznik tile-lined Pandeli

restaurant for a traditional Turkish

mezze lunch. Then pop back in a cab

to Cukurcuma where you’ll find a host

of antique, décor and quaint designer

shops. Be sure to visit A La Turca at 4

Faik Pasa Yokusu, for a tantalizing array

of kilims, eclectibles, ceramics, glass

and divine interior pieces. Head home

now to the Four Seasons Spa (see LUXE

Loves) and spend the afternoon poolside.

Sunset drinks on the waterside terrace at

Four Seasons is the perfect start to the

evening, followed (weather permitting)

by an alfresco supper at the aptly named

Sunset, a hilltop glamour spot with

international menu, stunning views

and a modernist marquee and glittery

terrace with a great retro bossa-vibe.

Finally, head back down to the water and

take a peaceful nightcap on the

picturesque and hopefully moonlit terrace

of little Hotel Bebek.

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Style

Istanbul has an array of fabulous

accommodation to go with its stylish

nightlife, so base yourself at the Witt

Istanbul Suites (see LUXE Loves). The

pretty streets of vintage and antique

‘village’ Cukurcuma are close enough for

an easy walk, but when the lunch bell

rings, hop into a cab and down to the

lovely little waterside enclave of Bebek for

light bites at buzzing Lucca. Post lunch,

off you go for some designer shopping in

Nisantasi, then check out the flirty and

wearable womenswear at Elaidi, Gonul

Paksoy’s fabulous hand-dyed fabrics

and ethnic-eclectic jewelry, and four-

floored label stable Beyman department

store. If retail fatigue sets in, then The

Sofa Hotel on Tesvikye Caddesi has a

wonderful hydro-therapy spa, as well as

being the perfect post-retail coffee stop.

When the sun begins to set, it can only

mean one thing, sundowners! And where

better to start your evening than on the

roof terrace of 360 – expensive yes, the

food so-so, but the view, to die for. 360

consistently attracts the smart set for

early drinks, but don’t get too comfy, your

table on the terrace of La Mouette awaits

(see LUXE Loves). A visit to Istanbul in

the summer simply wouldn’t be complete

without kicking up your heels at one of

the temporary waterside super-clubs lined

up along Muallim Naci Caddesi. These

huge, open-air arenas of glam, dancing,

drinking and dining are insanely popular

and whether it be Anjelique, Reina, Sortie

or any of the other annual arrivals, a very

good time is assured for all. Try if you can

to arrive by Water Taxi (see Drab Vs Fab).

If all this isn’t enough and you simply

have to have a last nightcap, then make

for Mikla (see LUXE Loves).

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Only Rome and Athens come close to

rivaling Istanbul in the ancient cultural

stakes, and locating yourself in the

epicenter Sultanahmet is a smart move

to avoid the shocking traffic problem so

egregiously affecting the city. The Four

Seasons Sultanahmet makes a great

base, and is a perfect respite from the

midday heat and mind-boggling crowds.

From the Hagia Sophia to the amazing

underground Yerebatan Sarnici (Basilica

Cistern), Blue Mosque and Archaelogical

Museum with its awe-inspiring Alexander

Sarcophagus, it can all too easily

become an overwhelming and confusing

maelstrom, which is where Context Travel

comes to the rescue (see Drab vs Fab).

These professional docents really bring

LUXE ITINERARY

Culturethe city and its extraordinary treasures

alive. If you can, arrange for them to take

you to the wonderful Church of the Holy

Savior in Chora (see LUXE Loves), and

take lunch at one of our favorite haunts

Asitane. Failing that, a walk around the

Grand Bazaar is both a sobering and

rewarding experience, its sheer scale

and variety of stalls is terrific. At the

crossroads of culture and bling sits Sevan

Bicakci (see LUXE Loves), located very

close to the Grand Bazaar, his astonishing

cocktail and dress rings for men and

women incorporate amazing gems and

miniature Byzantine portraits, and are

a truly original souvenir of the city. As

the sun sets over the Golden Horn, and

thoughts turn to supper, you don’t have

far to go. You have two great options.

Just a minute’s walk from the center of

Sultanahmet you’ll find Balikci Sabahattin,

famed for its seafood, and especially

pleasant if you can score one

of the few semi-alfresco, tented tables.

Or, take your place on the magical

rooftop St Sophia Terrace at the Four

Seasons Sultanahmet. With its incredible

views of the Sea of Marmara, plus all the

famed architectural wonders of the city

illuminated around you, there can be

few places to match it for romance,

culture, good food and wine, all in

one heavenly spot.

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LUXE ITINERARY

The Essentials

• Four Seasons Bosphorus

(see LUXE Loves)

• Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Mosque

(see LUXE Loves)

• Pandeli

Misir Carsi 1 / Eminonu /

+90 212 527 3909 / 11am-4pm

www.pandeli.com.tr

• A La Turca

Faik Pasa Yokusu 4 / Cukurcuma /

+90 212 245 2933

www.alaturcahouse.com

• Sunset

Ahmet Adnan Saygun Caddesi /

Yol Sokak 2 / Ulus Parki /

+90 212 287 0357

www.sunsetgrillbar.com

• Hotel Bebek

Cevdet Pasa Caddesi 34 / Bebek /

+90 212 358 2000

www.bebekhotel.com.tr

• Witt Istanbul Suites

(see LUXE Loves)

• Lucca

Cevdet Pasa Caddesi 51b / Bebek /

+90 212 257 1255

www.luccastyle.com

• Elaidi

Akkavak Sokak / Haci Omer Apt. 18/

1-2 / +90 212 231 0508

www.elaidi.net

• Gonul Paksoy

Atiye Sokak 1/3, TeŞvikiye Caddesi /

Nisantasi / +90 212 261 9081

• Beyman

Abdi Ipekci Caddesi, 23 / Nisantasi /

+90 212 343 4800

www.beymen.com

• The Sofa Hotel

Tesvikiye Caddesi 41 / Nisantasi /

+90 212 368 1818

www.thesofahotel.com

• 360

8/F Misir Apartmani / Itiklal Caddesi

163 / Beyoglu / +90 212 251 1042 /

closed Mon

www.360istanbul.com

ROMANTIC ITINERARY STYLISH ITINERARY

• La Mouette

(see LUXE Loves)

• Anjelique

Salhane Sokak 5 / Ortakoy /

+90 212 327 2844

www.istanbuldoors.com

• Reina

Muallim Naci Caddesi 44 / Ortakoy /

+90 212 259 5919

www.reina.com.tr

• Sortie

Muallim Naci Caddesi 54 / Ortakoy /

+90 212 327 8585

www.sortie.com.tr

• Mikla

(see LUXE Loves)

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• Four Seasons Sultanahmet

Tevkifhane Sokak 1 / Sultanahmet /

+90 212 402 3000

www.fourseasons.com

• Yerebatan Sarnici

Yerebatan Caddesi 13 / Sultanahmet /

+90 212 522 12 59

www.yerebatan.com

• Archaelogical Museum

Alemdar Caddesi / Osman Hamdi Bey

Yokusu Sokak / Sultanahmet /

+90 212 520 7740 / closed Mon

www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr

BUSINESS ITINERARY

• Church of the Holy Savior in Chora

(see LUXE Loves)

• Asitane

Kariye Camii Sokak 6 / Edirnekapi /

+90 212 635 7997

www.asitanerestaurant.com

• Sevan Bicakci

(see LUXE Loves)

Balikci Sabahattin

Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sokak 1 / Eminonu /

+90 212 458 1824

www.balikcisabahattin.com

LUXE ITINERARY

The Essentials

Intro Blah Blah LUXE Insider LUXE Loves LUXE Loathes Fab vs. Drab LUXE ItinerariesP15 / LUXE ISTANBUL

Citi PrestigeSM

Your LUXE notes