Istanbul - Citibank Singapore · Istanbul ONE THING IS FOR SURE, THERE’S NOWHERE QUITE LIKE...
Transcript of Istanbul - Citibank Singapore · Istanbul ONE THING IS FOR SURE, THERE’S NOWHERE QUITE LIKE...
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Istanbul
ONE THING IS FOR SURE, THERE’S NOWHERE QUITE LIKE ISTANBUL
The legendary capital of two of the
world’s greatest empires, built on seven
hills and spanning two continents, has
had many names over the centuries;
nova roma, byzantium, constantinople,
but one thing is for sure, there’s nowhere
quite like Istanbul. Think of the glittering
Bosphorus, Golden Horn and Sea of
Marmara dividing Istanbul into an upside
down ‘Y.” The top two segments are
the European side; to the left is ancient
Sultanahmet stacked with treasures; on
the right are Beyoglu and Nisantasi with
all their shopping and entertainment,
while the bottom segment is the
residential Asian side. And that’s all
you really need to know.
The cult pocket city guides and mobile
apps for the busy, sophisticated traveler
www.luxecityguides.comCITI PRESENTS LUXE CITY GUIDES
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• Have your hotel’s number
on you at ALL times.
• Summer season (and the
best time to visit) is May-Oct, winter
gets cold and snowy. Check dates
ahead to avoid Ramadan if you can,
as the city fasts until sundown
(2012 – July 21st-Aug19th,
2013 – July 10th-Aug 8th).
• Istanbul is seasonal, many places
move premises or close altogether
in winter (and for some of Aug),
so do check ahead to avoid
intense annoyance.
• English is widely spoken in
visitor-frequented areas.
• Ataturk airport to town: 30-60 mins
/ ≈ TL50/€25 by cab.
• Taxis are cheap and plentiful,
but it’s meter on, or get gone!
Or, hire a car and driver.
Blah blah• There is no need to tip cabs
and they have two rates: ‘gunduz’
– day, and ‘gece’ – night (midnight-
6am) which costs double; beware
of rip-off cabs in Sultanahmet who
often attempt to switch the rates.
• Always allow extra time for any
journey, as traffic can be heinous,
even out of rush hours.
• Visa on arrival (EU exempt) –
pay in US$ or euro, cash.
• There’s a smoking ban in all
enclosed public spaces, bars,
cafés and restaurants,
but compliance varies.
• Istanbul is very liberal,
but modest dress is
required nonetheless
when visiting mosques.
• ATMs are numerous and
very easy to find.
• Currency = Turkish Lira (a.k.a. TL/
YTL), euros sometimes accepted but
beware of atrocious exchange rates.
• Caddesi (Cad.) = road,
Sokak (Sok.) = street.
• The dialing code for Istanbul is +90
212 (Euro side) and 216 (Asian side),
all numbers quoted in this guide use
212 unless otherwise specified.
• Directory enq. 118, intl
operator 115, police 155,
intl ambulance 505 7272,
tourist police 528 5369.
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Founder and designer of OYE swimwear,
Ayca Sadikoglu is a lifelong Istanbul
devotee who grew up on the European
bank of the Bosphorus in picturesque
Bebek. Ayca graduated from Johns
Hopkins University with a degree in Art
History and Film & Media Studies. Upon
graduation, she moved to New York City
where she worked for the legendary
Merchant Ivory Productions. Her innate
talents as a designer and her natural
understanding of style came together
after a trip to India and culminated in her
starting the exclusive swimwear label OYE
(which stands for “Open Your Eyes”). As
the brand receives international acclaim
with each new collection, her dazzling
designs continue to turn heads on
beaches and magazine covers
around the world.
www.oyeswimwear.com
LUXE INSIDER
Ayca Sadikoglu
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1) WHERE DO YOU TAKE VISITORS WHEN THEY COME TO VISIT YOU AND WHY?
I find a visit to the Hagia Sophia and a
cool stroll in the Underground Cisterns
immediately across the street to be an
integral part (and the bare minimum)
of any Istanbul trip. Obviously for
those with more time on their hands
and a propensity to stroll, Istanbul
offers many more attractions such as
the exquisite Kariye Museum with its
well-preserved breathtaking Byzantine
mosaics. The Sultan Ahmed Mosque,
also known as the Blue Mosque for
its multitude of blue tiles, is a close
neighbor of the Hagia Sophia and
its Byzantine design elements are
considered to be the culmination
of Ottoman mosque and Byzantine
church development. After a long day
of cultural immersion nothing relaxes
the mind like cocktails on the rooftop
of Mikla in Pera. It has a striking view
of the Old City and the Golden Horn
and the conquests of the day light up
spectacularly at dusk.
www.hagiasophia.com
www.yerebatan.com
www.choramuseum.com
www.bluemosque.co
www.miklarestaurant.com
2) WHO ARE YOUR FAVORITE LOCAL DESIGNERS IN ISTANBUL? WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT THEM?
My favorite local designer is a brand
called ELSE Lingerie. Ever since I
discovered the brand, it has quickly
become one of my favorites. ELSE
Lingerie’s striking designs are extremely
flattering and accentuate just the right
curves. A quick trip to Harvey Nichols is
a must to pick up this lingerie.
www.elselingerie.com
3) WHERE DO YOU GO FOR A PAMPER SESSION, MASSAGE OR SPA TREATMENT?
The 45 minutes “kese” (body scrub)
inside an authentic Turkish bath at Les
Ottomans is the perfect way to pamper
yourself in a unique setting. This
traditional Turkish hammam treatment
begins with a full body scrub and is
followed with a silken foam massage
that cleans and moisturizes your skin.
At the end, you’ll be left with glowing
skin, it’s also a great way to prolong
your tan’s longevity.
www.lesottomans.com
4) WHAT’S THE BEST LOCAL DELICACY IN ISTANBUL, AND WHY AND WHERE IS IT WORTH TRYING?
Lakerda! It is a pickled bonito fish. It
is a quintessential part of the Istanbul
experience to dine at a fish restaurant
and sample this mezze. Tin cans of this
heavenly treat can be sourced from
the grizzled fishmongers in the historic
Fish Market Balik Pazari and certain
sympathetic maître d’s for a princely
sum to smuggle back to your point of
origin as one simply cannot do without
after tasting lakerda.
5) WHAT ARE 3 OF YOUR FAVORITE RESTAURANTS IN ISTANBUL AND WHY? WHAT DISHES DO YOU ORDER AT THESE PLACES?
Karakoy Lokantasi proves a great
selection of appetizers (mezzes)
with exceptional fish courses, with
two standouts in particular; the fish
pastrami (tastes nothing like what the
mind conjures) and the black-eyed peas
in extra lemon sauce are
simply terrific!
www.karakoylokantasi.com
Balikci Sabahattin is an excellent
restaurant run under the ever-watchful
eyes of the most attentive father-son
owners who strive to ensure the quality
and the happiness of the patrons. The
Fener kavurma (braised angler) is a
must!
www.balikcisabahattin.com
Munferit is a completely different
dining experience to the previous
two with a similar cuisine but a lively
after dinner scene in its bar. A very
fun venue with great music and many
patrons finishing up by dancing on top
of the tables! Of course, the food is just
as good and Turkish white cheese en
papillote with porcini mushrooms and
truffle oil is my personal favorite!
www.munferit.com.tr
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Ayca Sadikoglu
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LEB-I-DERYA Dining
Handsome views and a sleek,
contemporary interior of whites and
blond woods is the backdrop for
Leb-i-derya’s Eurasion/Turkish menu
featuring plenty of grilled fish and
meats, with an excellent cocktail list
and elegant, relaxed crowd. Their
sister restaurant and bar just a few
minutes up Istiklal Caddesi has a
lovely, relaxed open terrace for
summer breezes.
MIKLA
Dining
The Turkish and Scandinavian
influences on the international menu
are a delightful treat courtesy of chef
Mehmet Gurs, and while the simple
white linens and square tables are
nothing to write home about, it’s
the rooftop deck and bar view of the
Golden Horn that is the real draw
here. Hands down the best panorama
in town, plus a decent wine list, and
what’s more it’s one of the few places
serving a decent martini.
MUZEDECHANGA Dining
While the vibe may be low-key, the
high-octane flavors of Peter Gordon’s
creative Mediterranean cuisine
perfectly complement this spectacular
glass box salon and its beautiful
water views. It’s worth the journey
for lunch or dinner, and the attached
Sabanci Museum of manuscripts and
calligraphy means you can be cultural
at the same time.
6/F Richmond Hotel / Istiklal Caddesi
227 / Beyoglu / +90 212 243 4375 /
and Kumbaracı Yokusu 57/6 / Tünel /
Beyoglu / +90 212 293 4989
www.lebiderya.com
Marmara Pera Hotel / Mesrutiyet Caddesi
15 / Beyoglu / +90 212 293 5656
www.miklarestaurant.com
Sakip Sabanci Caddesi 42 / Emirgan
/ +90 212 323 0901
www.changa-istanbul.com
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LUXE Loves
BEBEK HOTEL TERRACE Bar
Istanbul has a slew of happening bars
and busy clubs, but when you just want
a quiet, peaceful and romantic cocktail,
you can’t do better than the simple,
waterside terrace at the little, maritime-
themed Bebek Hotel with its delicious
views over the Bosphorus. It really
comes into its own at night, but it’s
good for an afternoon tea too.
SEVAN BICAKCI Shopping
Ottoman and Byzantine-inspired
cufflinks and man-bling plus staggering
unisex cocktail rings, from exquisitely
fine to brash and over-the-top, and all
set in gold, silver and platinum with
semi-precious stones or minutely
detailed miniature portraits. You’ll need
firm arm muscles to lift them, but you’ll
be the belle/beau of the ball when
you do.
YASTIK BY RIFAT OZBEK
Shopping
It’s always lovely to take something
home with you as a memory of your
travels, however a Turkish rug or
kilim can be a tough call in a suitcase!
Far more portable and affordable
are designer Rifat Ozbek’s gloriously
colorful, limited edition cushions,
employing vibrant, traditional fabrics,
but with a swish, contemporary eye. But
beware, they’re addictive – you won’t be
able to leave the store with just one!Bebek Hotel / Cevdet Pasa Caddesi
34 / Bebek / +90 212 358 2000
www.bebekhotel.com.trMolla Fenari Mah. / Gazi Sinan Pasa
Sokak 16 / Cagaloglu / +90
212 520 4516
www.sevanbicakci.com
Sakayık Sokak / Olcay Apt. No:13/1 /
Tesvikiye / Sisli / +90 212 240 8731
www.yastikbyrifatozbek.com
LA MOUETTE
Dining
A summer sunset on the terrace of La
Mouette is one of the greatest pleasures
in the dining firmament of modern
Istanbul. Boasting superb views of
Sultanahmet, the simple wooden chairs
and white napery belie the two young
chefs’ imaginative and disarmingly
fresh take on Turkish classics and fish,
featuring locally sourced ingredients
and passion in spades.
GRAM
Dining
At first glance you’d be forgiven for
thinking this is just a rather delicious
looking bakery, but zip through to the
back and you’ll find the small dining
area of just two communal tables and
fabulous open buffet of light, Turkish
and Mediterranean-inspired salads and
hot dishes. When you consider that chef
Didem Şenol trained at NYC’s Le Cirque
and Eleven Madison Park, you know
you’re in for a treat.
360 Bar
The clue is in the name. With 360° views
stretching over Istanbul and the glinting
Bosphorus, this rooftop staple has been
attracting the crowds for years, but do
be warned, while the view is priceless,
the drinks are expensive and you can
disregard the food altogether. It’s
definitely worth a visit, but arrive early
to beat the crush.
8/F Misir Apartman / Istiklal
Caddesi 311 / Beyoglu /
+90 212 251 1042
www.360istanbul.com
Mesrutiyet Caddesi 107/D / Beyoglu,
/ +90 212 243 1048 / lunch only
noon-3pm
www.gramistanbul.com
Bogazkesen Caddesi / Tomtom Kaptan
Sokak 18 / Beyoglu / +90 212 292 4467
www.lamouetterestaurant.com
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LUXE LovesSOKOLLU MEHMET PASA MOSQUE Activities
If you’re fed up with the milling
millions at the Blue Mosque, for
a charming and altogether more
peaceful experience, head to this
close-by, pretty little mosque built
in 1571 by famed Ottoman architect
Mimar Sinan, whose crowning glory
was the exquisite Suleymaniye
Mosque. There is normally someone
nearby who will run to fetch the key
for you, and bear in mind, that though
entrance is officially free, it is gracious
to make a small donation or buy a
couple of photos to help with
the upkeep.
WITT ISTANBUL SUITES Hotel
We’ve stayed twice in these slick,
suite-only, designer ‘aparthotel’
rooms, elegantly fitted out in
contemporary light timbers with
marble kitchenettes and bathrooms,
and both times were impressed with
the space, style and value for money.
Add free WiFi and complimentary
Turkish breakfast buffet and you’re on
to a winner, and it’s only a five minute
walk to the cute-as-a-bug antiques-
filled Cukurcuma neighborhood.
GEORGES HOTEL Hotel
Istanbul excels in small, casual
but elegant boutique hotels, and
Georges is at the top of the list with
20 super-sleek and stylish rooms
housed in a heritage building in
happening Beyoglu. Add svelte Le
Fumoir restaurant, a handsome bar,
butler service and even in-room yoga,
and you’ve got the perfect base to
discover this ravishing city.
Sehit Cesmesi Sokak, Sultanahmet
Defterdar Yokusu 26 / Cihangir /
Beyoglu / +90 212 293 1500
www.wittistanbul.com
Serdar-I Ekrem Sokak No:24 / Beyoglu
/ +90 212 244 2423
www.georges.com
CHURCH OF THE HOLY SAVIOR IN CHORA Activities
If you liked the mosaics at the Hagia
Sofia, prepare to be blown away by
these. A 20-minute cab ride from
Sultanahmet will reward you with some
of the world’s finest C.14th Byzantine art
and mosaics in a charming and superbly
atmospheric church. And next door at
the Keriye Hotel, you can eat at Asitane,
one of our favorite places for a quiet but
delicious lunch.
Kariye Cami Sokak 6 / Edirnekapi /
+90 212 635 7997
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LUXE LoathesSULTANAHMET TAXI DRIVERS
Notorious for adding extras,
so do watch the meter.
TRAFFIC
It gets worse and worse, day after day –
absolutely avoid getting into a car at peak
times unless you really, really have to.
TAXI SAFETY
Hey guys, ever heard of seat belts?
NEON PRODUCT BRANDING IN CLUBS AND BARS
Deeply uncool and terribly prevalent.
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Fab vs. Drab
CULTURAL HERITAGE
Trying to comprehend the Hagia
Sophia, Blue Mosque or indeed any
of the stunning city monuments on
your own is a tall order, but booking
a personal guided tour and allowing
Context Travel to bring the ancient
city to glittering life before your eyes
is a very smart move.
www.contexttravel.com
CARPET WISE
Buying a carpet or kilim in the Grand
Bazaar is great fun, but heading to
Element and designing your own
unique contemporary floor covering,
hand woven using traditional
techniques is really unique.
www.elementcarpet.com
ARRIVE IN STYLE
Standing in line curbside with
hundreds of other revelers outside
the fabulously popular waterside
nightclubs in summer can be rather
dull, so cut the queues completely and
arrive in super-style by Bosphorus
Water Taxi.
www.deniztaksi.com.tr
HAMMAM
Taking a Turkish bath at any of the
noisy, bustling public hammams along
with swarms of florid tourists is fine if
you’re in the mood, but for something
far more luxurious relax in the luxury
private hammam of the gloriously
peaceful and intimate Ciragan Spa and
Hammam with its own indoor pool.
www.kempinski.com
TRAVEL CHOICES
Being constantly stuck in noisy traffic
on baking summer days is an all-too-
often occurrence in Istanbul, avoid it
and treat yourself into the bargain by
calling VIP Tourism and hiring your
own luxury gulet and setting sail for a
picnic on the shining Bosphorus.
www.vip.com.tr
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In this most romantic of ancient
cities, with its incredible location on
the sparkling Bosphorus, it would be
almost madness not to select a hotel
with frontline views. The Four Seasons
Bosphorus fills the bill perfectly with its
stunning waterside aspect, and amazing
spa, complete with indoor/outdoor pools.
Set off first thing to avoid the legions
and over the bridge you go to the oldest
part of the city, Sultanahmet. Here are
of course all the famous sites like the
Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, but for
a much quieter and peaceful visit to a
mosque make your way to the hidden
Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Mosque (see LUXE
Loves). Completely off the run-of-the-mill
tourist trail, you will very likely have the
place to yourself. A gentle amble through
LUXE ITINERARY
Romance
throbbing Sultanahmet will bring you
to the old Spice Market Misir Carsi. This
fabulously evocative bazaar is packed
to bursting with an overwhelming range
of spices, herbs and candied fruits,
but do look out for the famed and rare
Persian and Russian caviar, and of course,
lokum (Turkish Delight). Handily tucked
up in the eves above the market is the
lovely, turquoise Iznik tile-lined Pandeli
restaurant for a traditional Turkish
mezze lunch. Then pop back in a cab
to Cukurcuma where you’ll find a host
of antique, décor and quaint designer
shops. Be sure to visit A La Turca at 4
Faik Pasa Yokusu, for a tantalizing array
of kilims, eclectibles, ceramics, glass
and divine interior pieces. Head home
now to the Four Seasons Spa (see LUXE
Loves) and spend the afternoon poolside.
Sunset drinks on the waterside terrace at
Four Seasons is the perfect start to the
evening, followed (weather permitting)
by an alfresco supper at the aptly named
Sunset, a hilltop glamour spot with
international menu, stunning views
and a modernist marquee and glittery
terrace with a great retro bossa-vibe.
Finally, head back down to the water and
take a peaceful nightcap on the
picturesque and hopefully moonlit terrace
of little Hotel Bebek.
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Style
Istanbul has an array of fabulous
accommodation to go with its stylish
nightlife, so base yourself at the Witt
Istanbul Suites (see LUXE Loves). The
pretty streets of vintage and antique
‘village’ Cukurcuma are close enough for
an easy walk, but when the lunch bell
rings, hop into a cab and down to the
lovely little waterside enclave of Bebek for
light bites at buzzing Lucca. Post lunch,
off you go for some designer shopping in
Nisantasi, then check out the flirty and
wearable womenswear at Elaidi, Gonul
Paksoy’s fabulous hand-dyed fabrics
and ethnic-eclectic jewelry, and four-
floored label stable Beyman department
store. If retail fatigue sets in, then The
Sofa Hotel on Tesvikye Caddesi has a
wonderful hydro-therapy spa, as well as
being the perfect post-retail coffee stop.
When the sun begins to set, it can only
mean one thing, sundowners! And where
better to start your evening than on the
roof terrace of 360 – expensive yes, the
food so-so, but the view, to die for. 360
consistently attracts the smart set for
early drinks, but don’t get too comfy, your
table on the terrace of La Mouette awaits
(see LUXE Loves). A visit to Istanbul in
the summer simply wouldn’t be complete
without kicking up your heels at one of
the temporary waterside super-clubs lined
up along Muallim Naci Caddesi. These
huge, open-air arenas of glam, dancing,
drinking and dining are insanely popular
and whether it be Anjelique, Reina, Sortie
or any of the other annual arrivals, a very
good time is assured for all. Try if you can
to arrive by Water Taxi (see Drab Vs Fab).
If all this isn’t enough and you simply
have to have a last nightcap, then make
for Mikla (see LUXE Loves).
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Only Rome and Athens come close to
rivaling Istanbul in the ancient cultural
stakes, and locating yourself in the
epicenter Sultanahmet is a smart move
to avoid the shocking traffic problem so
egregiously affecting the city. The Four
Seasons Sultanahmet makes a great
base, and is a perfect respite from the
midday heat and mind-boggling crowds.
From the Hagia Sophia to the amazing
underground Yerebatan Sarnici (Basilica
Cistern), Blue Mosque and Archaelogical
Museum with its awe-inspiring Alexander
Sarcophagus, it can all too easily
become an overwhelming and confusing
maelstrom, which is where Context Travel
comes to the rescue (see Drab vs Fab).
These professional docents really bring
LUXE ITINERARY
Culturethe city and its extraordinary treasures
alive. If you can, arrange for them to take
you to the wonderful Church of the Holy
Savior in Chora (see LUXE Loves), and
take lunch at one of our favorite haunts
Asitane. Failing that, a walk around the
Grand Bazaar is both a sobering and
rewarding experience, its sheer scale
and variety of stalls is terrific. At the
crossroads of culture and bling sits Sevan
Bicakci (see LUXE Loves), located very
close to the Grand Bazaar, his astonishing
cocktail and dress rings for men and
women incorporate amazing gems and
miniature Byzantine portraits, and are
a truly original souvenir of the city. As
the sun sets over the Golden Horn, and
thoughts turn to supper, you don’t have
far to go. You have two great options.
Just a minute’s walk from the center of
Sultanahmet you’ll find Balikci Sabahattin,
famed for its seafood, and especially
pleasant if you can score one
of the few semi-alfresco, tented tables.
Or, take your place on the magical
rooftop St Sophia Terrace at the Four
Seasons Sultanahmet. With its incredible
views of the Sea of Marmara, plus all the
famed architectural wonders of the city
illuminated around you, there can be
few places to match it for romance,
culture, good food and wine, all in
one heavenly spot.
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LUXE ITINERARY
The Essentials
• Four Seasons Bosphorus
(see LUXE Loves)
• Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Mosque
(see LUXE Loves)
• Pandeli
Misir Carsi 1 / Eminonu /
+90 212 527 3909 / 11am-4pm
www.pandeli.com.tr
• A La Turca
Faik Pasa Yokusu 4 / Cukurcuma /
+90 212 245 2933
www.alaturcahouse.com
• Sunset
Ahmet Adnan Saygun Caddesi /
Yol Sokak 2 / Ulus Parki /
+90 212 287 0357
www.sunsetgrillbar.com
• Hotel Bebek
Cevdet Pasa Caddesi 34 / Bebek /
+90 212 358 2000
www.bebekhotel.com.tr
• Witt Istanbul Suites
(see LUXE Loves)
• Lucca
Cevdet Pasa Caddesi 51b / Bebek /
+90 212 257 1255
www.luccastyle.com
• Elaidi
Akkavak Sokak / Haci Omer Apt. 18/
1-2 / +90 212 231 0508
www.elaidi.net
• Gonul Paksoy
Atiye Sokak 1/3, TeŞvikiye Caddesi /
Nisantasi / +90 212 261 9081
• Beyman
Abdi Ipekci Caddesi, 23 / Nisantasi /
+90 212 343 4800
www.beymen.com
• The Sofa Hotel
Tesvikiye Caddesi 41 / Nisantasi /
+90 212 368 1818
www.thesofahotel.com
• 360
8/F Misir Apartmani / Itiklal Caddesi
163 / Beyoglu / +90 212 251 1042 /
closed Mon
www.360istanbul.com
ROMANTIC ITINERARY STYLISH ITINERARY
• La Mouette
(see LUXE Loves)
• Anjelique
Salhane Sokak 5 / Ortakoy /
+90 212 327 2844
www.istanbuldoors.com
• Reina
Muallim Naci Caddesi 44 / Ortakoy /
+90 212 259 5919
www.reina.com.tr
• Sortie
Muallim Naci Caddesi 54 / Ortakoy /
+90 212 327 8585
www.sortie.com.tr
• Mikla
(see LUXE Loves)
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• Four Seasons Sultanahmet
Tevkifhane Sokak 1 / Sultanahmet /
+90 212 402 3000
www.fourseasons.com
• Yerebatan Sarnici
Yerebatan Caddesi 13 / Sultanahmet /
+90 212 522 12 59
www.yerebatan.com
• Archaelogical Museum
Alemdar Caddesi / Osman Hamdi Bey
Yokusu Sokak / Sultanahmet /
+90 212 520 7740 / closed Mon
www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr
BUSINESS ITINERARY
• Church of the Holy Savior in Chora
(see LUXE Loves)
• Asitane
Kariye Camii Sokak 6 / Edirnekapi /
+90 212 635 7997
www.asitanerestaurant.com
• Sevan Bicakci
(see LUXE Loves)
Balikci Sabahattin
Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sokak 1 / Eminonu /
+90 212 458 1824
www.balikcisabahattin.com
LUXE ITINERARY
The Essentials
Intro Blah Blah LUXE Insider LUXE Loves LUXE Loathes Fab vs. Drab LUXE ItinerariesP15 / LUXE ISTANBUL
Citi PrestigeSM
Your LUXE notes