Bon Appetit 2014-12

T h e C r a w l

Food Stalls in Jemaa el-FnaAt sundown, the plaza of Jemaa el-Fna becomes one of the worlds most dazzling markets. Heres the must-try list.

N AV I GATO R > marrakech

quails eggs with vegetarian kefta and pured beets.

H A R D - T O - F I N D D I S H E SL a M a i s o n A r a b e

The famous lamb tagine with caramelized oranges and a sauce of the meats juices, saffron, turmeric, and ginger

is a must. The chicken tagine with sun-dried peaches is superb too.

M O R O C C A N F A S T F O O DC a f C l o c k

Dont miss the juicy camel burgers (seriously!) and date milk shakes at this hipster hangout in the Kasbah area.

The best part of the city

may just be its hotels, from the sexy and

luxurious to the authentic and tranquil. Here, the standouts.

GET A ROOM

La MamouniaMarrakechs

original grande-dame hotel is ideal for

couples and honeymooners

seeking inventive food,

a sumptuous spa, and an in-town location.

Royal MansourBuilt in 2010

by the king of Morocco as the quintessential showcase of

local design and craftsmanship, this nine-acre

compound is the place to pull

out all the stops.

El FennFenn is local

s lang for cool , and staying at this exquisitely decorated riad hotel gives you an inside track to everything fenn in town.

Fellah HotelAn art-loving

couple opened this country retreat on a

farm 20 minutes outside of Marrakech.

Warning: With its dreamy setting and huge jade-

green pool, you may never want to leave.

72 BONAPPETIT.COM DECEMBER 2014

S N A I L SCooked in a fabulously funky broth seasoned with thyme, caraway seeds, mint, red pepper, green tea, and sometimes star anise. Get em at stall Nos. 16. Dont be timid.

M E R G U E ZLocals go to stall No. 32, a.k.a. Chez Hassam, for deliciously spicy flame-gri l led lamb sausages.

H A R I R A S O U PWhen youre jet-lagged, nothing beats this tomato broth f lavored with coriander, saffron, and ginger and studded with chickpeas and lentils. Often served with just-baked flatbread.

M O R O C C A N F O O D 1 0 1 A l F a s s i aRun by a group of local women, this is the place to discover real Moroccan home cooking, including dozens of salads, tagines (meat, poultry, or fish braised in a conical ceramic dish with various garnishes), and bsteeyaflaky sweet-and-savory pastries filled with minced squab.

H A N G W I T H T H E L O C A L SN o m a dWith an intriguingly perfumed location in the bustling Rahba Kedima spice market, this new restaurant does terrific Moroccan salads and sidescarrots with cumin or roasted eggplanttomatoand tagines. Profits from the daily special go to a local charity.

T H E D E L I C I O U S D E C O RD a r M o h aMoroccan food-TV star Moha Fedal has a superb restaurant that occupies a plush 19th-century riad. His tasting menu runs to refined dishes like monkfish bsteeya and foie gras couscous.

T H E M I C H E L I N C O N T E N D E RG a s t r o M K

If there were a Moroccan Michelin Guide, chef Omar El Ouahssoussi would easily snag a star for his five-course Euro-Moroccan tasting menu of dishes like breaded

Clockwise f rom top lef t : D inner at Jemaa e l -Fna; camel burger at Caf Clock; spa lobby at Royal Mansour; sa lad spread at A l Fass ia .

T h e F o o d

The Restaurant Hit List

For addresses of the restaurants and other spots in this story, see Sourcebook on page 132.
http://BONAPPETIT.COM

N AV I GATO R > marrakech

T H E A R M C H A I R T R AV E L E R Brit ish writer Peter Maynes republished 1953 classic, A Year in Marrakesh , v iv idly portrays the l i fe of the Medina. I t s almost as good as being there.

THE SOUVENIRSStephen di Renza,

creative director of the boutique at the

legendary Jardin Majorelle, reveals his Marrakech must-haves.

TA G I N EAkkal does

striking modern Moroccan

kitchen ceramics in bold

solid colors.

J A MDelicious

homemade confitures,

including bitter orange, from

Ain Kassimou .

P A S T R YModern takes on classic Moroccan

gazelle horns from ODyafy pastry shop.

First-rate pizza in Marrakech? Absolutely. Try the artichoke and arugula version at hip Jack Is Back.

B E S T P A S T R Y A l J a w d a

Eat some of Madame Alamis gorgeous Arabian pastries on the spot, or buy them to nibble over a drink on the terrace of the nearby Grand Caf de la Poste.

A L L - D AY H I P S T E R E AT I N G K e c h m a r a

Dining hours in Marrakech tend to be strict, so this stylish nonstop bistro is just the ticket for all-day breakfastdont miss the eggs en cocotte with Roquefort.

U LT I M AT E C A F L e G r a n d C a f d e l a P o s t e

The terrace of this charming Art Deco caf offers the best people watching in town. You probably wont recognize

any of the Moroccan media stars, but the blingy buzz is fun, and the seared steak tartare with a glass of ros make for a perfect lunch after visiting the lush Jardin Majorelle.

C U T T I N G - E D G E S T R E E T A R T D a v i d B l o c h G a l l e r y

The heart of Marrakechs upstart contemporary art scene is at this gallery.

B E S T M O D E R N B O U T I Q U E3 3 R u e M a j o r e l l e

The ultimate Moroccan concept store, selling home furnishings and riffs on the countrys traditional leather slippers (pictured left) by designer Hassan Hajjaj.

T h e N e i g h b o r h o o d

Guliz Designed when Morocco was a French protectorate, this orange treelined area west of the Medina has an Art Deco charm and, more recently, a kind of downtown-NYC vibe. Highlights include:

W H E R EE S S A O U I R A

W H YC O A S TA L O A S I S

H O W FA R1 1 0 M I L E S W E S T O F M A R R A K E C H

Quieter and calmer than Marrakech, Essaouira on the Atlantic coast is the top spot to eat seafood in Morocco. The busy fish market is the place to land lunch: You simply buy your fish and have it grilled on the spot, to be eaten at the adjacent picnic tables. The beach is also a favorite of globetrotting

surfers. Along the two-hour drive from Marrakech, stop at Domaine du Val dArgan, Moroccos most innovative winery, and the Cooprative Fminine dArgane El Kheir, which provides work to local women by producing argan oil, native to Morocco, thats pricey when imported and prized by chefs.

T H E D AY T R I P


PHO

TOG

RA

PHS

: CO

URT

ESY

ELA

ND

PU

BLIS

HIN

G L

TD (

BOO

K);

BER

ND

JO

NKM

AN

NS/

LAIF

/RED

UX

(ES

SAO

UIR

A).

ILLU

STR

ATIO

NS

BY

JOE

WIL

SO

N.

Jardin el Hart i

Feqqas at Al Jawda

Eggs en cocotte at Kechmara

P. 84

L AV E N D E R S H O RT B R E A D W I T H F RU I T S,

F LOW E R S, A N D H E R B S

IMMACULATE

CONFECTION

P h o t o g r a p h s b y M I C H A E L G R A Y D O N +

N I K O L E H E R R I O T T

Its not just about cookies anymore.

The coolest sweets of the season are

brought to you by William Werner, the brains behind

San Franciscos ultramodern

patisserie Craftsman and Wolves

P. 86

C H O C O L AT E F U D G E W I T H

B O U R B O N S U GA R

This recipe makes more bourbon sugar than youll need,

and thats a good thing. Use it to top tea cakes and sprinkle

over cookies before baking or to sweeten your morning

coffee (we wont tell).

G i f t Y o u r s e l f

White chocolate and green tea are a dream team, but this cookie can party with plenty of other mix-ins as

well. Try also adding a little chopped candied

ginger or dried apricots.

T e a P a i r i n g s

P. 86

M ATC H AW H I T E C H O C O L AT E

S U GA R C O O K I E S

P. 86

G O L D E N CAS H E W-C U R RY B R I T T L E

The thin, shatteringly crisp consistency of this brittle is what sets it apart. The key? Kneading and stretching it

while hot. Watch how at bonappetit.com

/holidays

F l e x Y o u r B r i t t l e
http://bonappetit.com/holidayshttp://bonappetit.com/holidays

P. 87

SA F F R O N - P E A R LO L L I P O P S

You dont need a special mold to make these. Just pour the

circles a touch smaller than youd like;

they grow larger as they pool.

P o p S t a r


Lavender Shortbread with Fruits, Flowers, and HerbsMAKES 20 For a rundown on some of the beautiful toppings you can use, see Prep School on page 131.

GLAZE 3 large egg whites 4 cups powdered sugar tsp. cream of tartar

SHORTBREAD AND ASSEMBLY cup rice flour 1 tsp. kosher salt 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more 1 cup plus 6 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into pieces, room temperature cup granulated sugar 1 tsp. coarsely ground dried lavender Freeze-dried and/or dried fruits, dried edible flowers, fresh and/or dried herbs (for decorating)

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: One 3"-diameter and one 1"-diameter fluted cutter

GLAZE Using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, stir egg whites, powdered sugar, and cream of tartar in a medium bowl

until a thick paste forms with no dry spots. Ideally, glaze should sit at least 12 hours for sugar to fully hydrate, but it can be used as soon as cookies have cooled. Or, you can cover and chill up to 1 week. Bring to room temperature before using.

SHORTBREAD AND ASSEMBLY Whisk rice flour, salt, and 2 cups all-purpose flour in a medium bowl. Using an electric mixer on medium-high, beat butter, sugar, and lavender in a medium bowl until very pale and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Mix in dry ingredients on low until fully combined. Wrap in plastic and chill at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.

Preheat oven to 350. Roll out dough between 2 sheets of lightly floured parchment to " thick. Using large cutter, cut out 16 rounds, rerolling scraps. Using small cutter, punch out centers. Bake on parchment-lined baking sheets until edges are golden, 1214 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack.

Working quickly, dip tops of cookies into glaze, letting excess drip off. Transfer to wire rack and decorate.

DO AHEAD: Store shortbread airtight at room temperature up to 1 week.

S T E P 3

Dip baked cookies into the glaze and let the excess drip back into the bowl. Try two or three at a time, then go immediately to Step 4.

S T E P 2

Using two round cutters (one smaller than the

other to make the wreaths center), punch out circle,

then cut out center.

S T E P 4

Adorn these cookies however you please, just work

quicklythe toppings wont stick to dry glaze. Youve got

a minute or so to go wild.

These deceptively simple lavender shortbread

wreaths will rule your next cookie swap. See below for how to pull them off

or watch our video at bonappetit.com/holidays.

B A W r e a t h E x p e r t

B A K E T H E C O V E R

Above: Lavender Shortbread wreaths decorated with everything from candied rosemary to freeze-dried blueberries.

S T E P 1

Roll out the cookie dough between two sheets of lightly

floured parchment paper until its about " thick.
http://bonappetit.com/holidayshttp://BONAPPETIT.COM

To ensure perfectly square edges, you need a dry

surface and a clean, dry knife. Sprinkle moisture-absorbing

powdered sugar on the cutting board and marshmallows,

and rinse and dry your knife between slices

as needed.

M a l l o w O u t

P. 87

B LO O D O R A N G E A N D C O C O N U T

M A R S H M A L LOW S


Chocolate Fudge with Bourbon SugarMAKES 32 The exceptional texture and glossy sheen of this fudge result from the way you mix it. Make sure the chocolate and condensed milk are barely hot.

BOURBON SUGAR 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 1 cup demerara sugar 2 Tbsp. bourbon

FUDGE Nonstick vegetable oil spray 10 oz. bittersweet chocolate (preferably 72%), coarsely chopped 4 oz. unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped 1 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milk 10 Tbsp. (1 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces 2 Tbsp. bourbon 1 Tbsp. light corn syrup tsp. kosher salt 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)

BOURBON SUGAR Preheat oven to 150 or as low as yours will go. Scrape vanilla seeds into a small bowl; stir in demerara sugar and bourbon. Spread on a parchment-lined baking sheet and let dry out in oven overnight, leaving door slightly ajar. Mixture should feel like demerara sugar again in the morning.

DO AHEAD: Store bourbon sugar airtight at room temperature up to 2 months.

FUDGE Line an 8x8" baking dish with parchment paper, leaving a generous overhang on 2 sides; lightly coat with nonstick spray. Heat chocolates in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water (do not let bowl touch water), stirring occasionally, until almost completely melted. Set aside.

Combine condensed milk, butter, bourbon, corn syrup, and kosher salt in a small saucepan; scrape in vanilla seeds and add pod. Heat over medium until barely hot (same as the chocolate).

Gently stir one quarter of milk mixture into chocolate with a rubber spatula. Add another quarter of milk mixture, stirring to incorporate (it might look broken and greasy; dont worry, it will come back together). Continue with remaining milk mixture in 2 additions, stirring vigorously

until fudge is very shiny and almost elastic, about 5 minutes. Scrape into prepared pan and smooth top. Sprinkle with bourbon sugar and sea salt. Let cool, then cover and chill at least 4 hours.

Turn out fudge onto a cutting board and slice into 2x" rectangles, 2" squares, or triangles.

DO AHEAD: Fudge can be made 1 week ahead. Wrap tightly and chill.

MatchaWhite Chocolate Sugar CookiesMAKES 24 Powdered green tea gives these tender cookies an elf-worthy hue that will stand out, with no icing or decorating needed.

cup granulated sugar, divided tsp. plus 2 Tbsp. matcha 2 cups all-purpose flour tsp. baking soda tsp. kosher salt 1 cup (2 sticks) plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces, room temperature cup (packed) light brown sugar 1 Tbsp. honey 1 large egg 1 large egg yolk 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 3 oz. white chocolate, chopped

INGREDIENT INFO: Matcha, also called green tea powder, is available at Japanese markets and some supermarkets, and online.

Whisk cup granulated sugar and tsp. matcha in a small bowl; set aside.

Whisk flour, baking soda, salt, and remaining 2 Tbsp. matcha in a medium bowl. Using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat butter, brown sugar, honey, and remaining cup granulated sugar in a medium bowl until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add egg, egg yolk, and lemon zest and mix until very pale, about 4 minutes.

Reduce mixer speed to low and, with motor running, add flour mixture; mix until no dry spots remain. Using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, mix in white chocolate.

Wrap dough in plastic and chill at least 2 hours and up to 5 days. If chilling more

than a few hours, let dough sit at room temperature 1 hour to soften before scooping and baking.

Preheat oven to 350. Scoop the dough by the scant tablespoonful onto 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing about 1" apart. (Or, for neat and tidy cookies with perfect edges, like the ones in our photo, portion same amount of dough into the cups of a mini muffin pan coated with nonstick vegetable oil spray.)

Bake cookies, rotating baking sheet halfway through, until bottoms and edges are barely golden and cooked (top will no longer look wet), 810 minutes.

Immediatelybut gentlytoss cookies in reserved matcha sugar and place on wire racks; let cool.

DO AHEAD: Store cookies airtight at room temperature up to 2 days.

Golden Cashew-Curry Brittle8 SERVINGS Everyone loves brittle, and most people are happy to avoid the holiday shopping crowds, which is why homemade presents like this rule. For advice on how to pack up this gently spiced, shatteringly crisp candy, see Prep School on page 128.

Nonstick vegetable oil spray 1 cup cashews cup sugar cup light corn syrup 1 tsp. kosher salt tsp. curry powder 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter tsp. baking soda

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A candy ther mom eter; latex or other food-grade disposable gloves

Preheat oven to 350. Lightly coat a silicone baking mat or parchment paper with nonstick spray. Toast cashews on an unlined rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until just beginning to brown, 58 minutes. Let cool.

Meanwhile, bring sugar, corn syrup, and cup water to a boil in a medium saucepan fitted with a thermometer over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Boil, swirling pan occasionally (at this point, you do not want to stir; doing so could encourage the sugar to crystallize), until thermometer registers 230.

DECEMBER 2014 BONAPPETIT.COM 87

FOO

D S

TYLI

NG

BY

SU

SAN

SPU

NG

EN. P

ROP

STYL

ING

BY

THEO

VA

MV

OU

NA

KIS.

ILLU

STR

ATIO

NS

BY

MAT

WIL

LIA

MS.

Add salt, curry powder, and cashews and stir, making sure cashews are completely coated and spices are evenly combined. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until thermometer registers 300 (caramel will be a deep golden brown and cashews will be completely toasted).

Remove from heat and carefully stir in butter and baking soda; caramel will bubble and foam.

Immediately pour mixture onto prepared baking mat and let cool slightly. Wearing gloves (maybe even two pairsmixture will be extremely hot), lift up an edge of baking mat and use it to fold mixture onto itself as if you were going to knead it; continue working in this fashion 1 minute. This will distribute the heat and incorporate air, resulting in a thin, crackly consistency.

As soon as mixture begins to firm up, stretch out, making it thin in places, but keeping it in one piece. (If today is not your day to sculpt molten sugar, simply pour mixture onto prepared sheet and use a spatula to spread it as thin as you can.) Let cool, then break brittle into uneven pieces, whatever size you like.

DO AHEAD: Brittle will keep airtight at room temperature up to 1 week.

Saffron-Pear LollipopsMAKES 30 Anchor these in short vases filled with granulated sugar and win sweetest decor award.

Nonstick vegetable oil spray (optional) 2 Tbsp. finely chopped candied ginger tsp. saffron threads, plus more 1 cups sugar vanilla bean, split lengthwise cup light corn syrup tsp. kosher salt cup plus 1 Tbsp. pear liqueur

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: 30 lollipop sticks; a candy thermometer

Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with silicone baking mats or parchment paper (lightly coat parchment with nonstick spray). Have lollipop sticks, candied ginger, and extra saffron at the ready.

Place sugar and tsp. saffron in a food processor; scrape in vanilla seeds (reserve pod for another use). Pulse to

combine, then transfer to a medium saucepan fitted with thermometer. Stir in corn syrup, salt, cup liqueur, and cup water and cook over medium-high heat, swirling pan occasionally, until thermometer registers 300. (Syrup will hit what is known as the hard crack stage. When cooled, it will be hard and will snap when bent.) Remove pot from heat and add remaining 1 Tbsp. liqueur, swirling pan to cool syrup slightly.

Pour half of syrup into a 1-cup heatproof measuring cup with a spout; set remaining syrup aside. Working quickly, pour syrup onto prepared baking sheets to make 1" rounds (syrup will spread slightly).

Immediately place sticks in the center of each round, spinning to coat (so they stay stuck in the cooled candy). Scatter a few saffron threads and pieces of ginger on top. Repeat with remaining syrup (reheat gently if it starts to seize). Let cool.

DO AHEAD: Store lollipops airtight between sheets of parchment paper at room temperature up to 1 week.

Blood Orange and Coconut MarshmallowsMAKES 8 STRIPS OR FORTY 2" PIECES

The key to making even and distinct layers? Smoothing them out with an oiled offset spatula and letting the first layer cool completely before topping.

BLOOD ORANGE LAYER Nonstick vegetable oil spray 3 tsp. powdered gelatin cup granulated sugar cup fresh blood orange juice 5 Tbsp. light corn syrup, divided 5 drops (or more) red food coloring

COCONUT LAYER AND ASSEMBLY 3 tsp. unflavored gelatin cup granulated sugar cup low-fat coconut milk 5 Tbsp. light corn syrup, divided cup powdered sugar

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A candy thermometer

BLOOD ORANGE LAYER Line a 13x9" rimmed baking sheet (or use a 13x9" baking pan; marshmallows will be a bit taller) with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper and lightly coat with

nonstick spray. Place cup water in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment and sprinkle gelatin over. Let stand until softened, about 10 minutes.

Stir granulated sugar, blood orange juice, and 2 Tbsp. corn syrup in a small saucepan fitted with thermometer; bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cook until thermometer registers 230.

Meanwhile, add remaining 3 Tbsp. corn syrup to gelatin mixture. As soon as thermometer registers 230 and with mixer on high speed, add blood orange syrup to gelatin mixture, drizzling down the side of the bowl. Beat until soft, collapsing peaks form and bowl feels cool to the touch, about 5 minutes. Mix in red food coloring, adding more to reach desired color.

Working quickly, scrape blood orange mixture into prepared pan; smooth into an even layer with an offset spatula lightly coated with nonstick spray. Let cool.

COCONUT LAYER AND ASSEMBLY Place cup water in the bowl of stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment and sprinkle gelatin over. Let stand until softened, about 10 minutes.

Stir granulated sugar, coconut milk, and 2 Tbsp. corn syrup in a small saucepan fitted with thermometer; bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cook until thermometer registers 230.

Meanwhile, add remaining 3 Tbsp. corn syrup to gelatin mixture. As soon as thermometer registers 230 and with mixer on high speed, add coconut syrup to gelatin mixture, drizzling down the side of the bowl. Beat until soft, collapsing peaks form and bowl feels cool to the touch, about 5 minutes.

Working quickly, scrape coconut mixture over blood orange layer; smooth with offset spatula. Let sit, uncovered, at least 12 hours before cutting. (Marshmallow will be firm but springy when pressed.)

Dust a cutting board with powdered sugar. Gently run a paring knife around the edge of the pan to release marshmallow and invert onto cutting board. Cut marshmallow into "-wide strips and roll in powdered sugar. Coil into glass jars for gifting, or cut into 2" pieces and roll in any remaining powdered sugar.

DO AHEAD: Store marshmallows tightly wrapped at room temperature up to 2 weeks.

( R O A S T D U C K S

W I T H P O T A T O E S ,

F I G S , A N D

R O S E M A R Y P. 9 2 )

T H E

T H E

C E L E B R A T E . P U L L O U T A L L T H E S T O P S .

M A K E D I N N E R S Y O U L L B E T A L K I N G A B O U T U N T I L

N E X T D E C E M B E R . T H E S E A R E T H E

M A I N C O U R S E S G U A R A N T E E D T O I M P R E S S

b y A L I S O N R O M A N

p h o t o g r a p h s b y C H R I S T O P H E R T E S T A N I

& T H E

S E A L T H E D E A L

It s all about

making a tight

seal with the salt

crustit forms a

mini-oven around

the fish, keeping

the flavors of the

aromatics inside.

Add just enough

water to the salt

until it feels l ike

very wet sand. To

test it out, pack

a little in the palm

of your hand; if

it holds its shape

without cracking,

youre good to

go. ( I f not, add

more water.)

( S A L T - B A K E D

W I T H C I T R U S A N D

H E R B S P. 9 5 )

> Watch this

centerpiece come

together at

bonappetit.com

/holidays
http://bonappetit.comhttp://bonappetit.com/holidays

( B R A I S E D

S H A N K S W I T H

B A C O N -

P A R M E S A N

C R U M B S P. 9 5 )


P O M E G R A N A T E - A N D - F E N N E L -

G L A Z E D R A C K O F L A M B

8 SERVINGS Two racks make enough for each person to have two chops. Cut between each bone individually for single chops, or cut into double-rib portions.

3 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano 2 Tbsp. olive oil 3 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. pomegranate molasses 3 Tbsp. fennel seeds, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 medium fennel bulbs, sliced lengthwise 1 small onion, thinly sliced 2 33-lb. racks of lamb, rib bones frenched 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar cup pomegranate seeds

SOURCING INFO: Be sure to ask for American lamb rather than

New Zealand. The delicate New Zealand breeds are much smaller than the meaty domestic varieties, so the cooking time (and yield) would change significantly.

INGREDIENT INFO: Pomegranate molasses is available at Middle Eastern markets and some supermarkets, and online.

Preheat oven to 425. Mix oregano, olive oil, 3 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses, and 2 Tbsp. fennel seeds in a small bowl; season oregano mixture with salt and pepper.

Toss fennel, onion, remaining 1 Tbsp. fennel seeds, and remaining 2 tsp. pomegranate molasses in a large baking dish or roasting pan; season with salt and pepper. Distribute evenly across bottom of pan.

Season lamb with salt and pepper. Heat 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium. Cook 1 rack of lamb, fat side down, until golden brown, 810 minutes. Turn and cook until other side is just browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer to dish with fennel mixture, placing fat side up, and rub with half of oregano mixture. Wipe out skillet and repeat with remaining 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil, second rack of lamb, and remaining oregano mixture.

Roast lamb and vegetables until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of lamb registers 125 for medium-rare, 2530 minutes. Transfer lamb to a cutting board and let rest at least 10 minutes before carving.

Meanwhile, toss vegetables in pan drippings to coat and continue to roast until tender and starting to caramelize, 1015 minutes. Remove from oven; add vinegar and toss to combine.

Serve lamb over vegetables topped with pomegranate seeds.

R O A S T D U C K S W I T H P O T A T O E S ,

F I G S , A N D R O S E M A R Y

8 SERVINGS For advice on scoring the birds and what to do with all that rendered duck fat, see Prep School on page 128.

2 5-lb. whole Pekin ducks 2 large onions, quartered 1 large bunch rosemary, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 3 lb. small Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled 2 pints fresh black Mission or Turkish figs, halved

SOURCING INFO: Pekin (also known as Long Island) duck is the most

common variety for whole ducks, and their size makes them great for roasting. Many purveyors stock these birds frozen, so pick them up a day or two before cooking so they can defrost.

Preheat oven to 425. Set ducks, breast side down, on a work surface and score fatty areas along backs and thighs with a paring knife, being careful not to cut into flesh. Turn over and score fat, concentrating mainly on breasts but extending to tops of legs. Poke a few holes around extra-fatty areas of cavity.

Stuff ducks with onions and all but 4 sprigs rosemary; season generously with salt and pepper (much of the seasoning will melt away as the fat renders).

Place ducks, breast side down, in a large roasting pan; pour in cup water. Roast, rotating pan occasionally, until duck fat starts to render, water is evaporated, and skin is golden brown, about 40 minutes. Remove pan from oven and transfer ducks to a platter or baking dish. Carefully pour rendered fat into a heatproof measuring cup.

Toss potatoes and cup duck fat in roasting pan (save remaining fat for another use); season with salt and pepper. Scoot potatoes to perimeter and return ducks to pan, breast side up. Roast until potatoes and dark meat are tender and an instant-read thermometer inserted into breasts registers 155, 5060 minutes. Transfer ducks to a cutting board; let rest at least 10 minutes before carving.

Meanwhile, add figs and remaining 4 rosemary sprigs to pan; toss well. Roast until figs are soft and juicy, 58 minutes. Serve duck with figs and potatoes.

H O R S E R A D I S H - A N D - P A R S L E Y -

S T U F F E D R I B - E Y E R O A S T

8 SERVINGS For an instructive primer on how to butterfly your holiday roast, go to bonappetit.com/butterfly.

8 anchovy fillets packed in oil, drained, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely grated 1 cup finely chopped fresh parsley cup grated horseradish cup olive oil 2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes tsp. freshly grated nutmeg Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 45-lb. boneless beef rib-eye roast

SOURCING INFO: The rib-eye roast comes from the same area

as the standing rib roast, but its a more manageable size (and cooks more evenly). It has all the fata.k.a. flavorof prime rib. Ask your butcher for the bones and roast them with the meat: Then you can decide whos been naughty or nice.

Combine anchovies, garlic, parsley, horseradish, oil, red pepper flakes, and nutmeg in a small bowl; season with salt and pepper. Set 2 Tbsp. of mixture aside.

Place rib-eye roast, fat side down, on a cutting board with a short end toward you. Holding a sharp slicing knife about 1" above cutting board, make a shallow cut along the entire length of a long side of roast. Continue cutting deeper into the roast, lifting and unfurling meat with your free hand, until it can lie flat. Season both sides with salt and pepper.

Spread parsley mixture over roast and roll up so fat cap is on top; tie at 1" intervals with kitchen twine. Rub outside of roast with reserved parsley mixture and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Chill at least 8 hours and up to 1 day.

Let roast sit at room temperature 1 hour to help it roast evenly.

Preheat oven to 400. Place meat on a rack set inside a roasting pan and roast, rotating once, until fat is golden brown and starting to render, 4050 minutes.

Reduce temperature to 300 and continue to roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part registers 125 for medium-rare, 11 hours longer. Transfer to a cutting board; let rest at least 30 minutes before slicing.
http://BONAPPETIT.COMhttp://bonappetit.com/butterfly

T E M P E R A T U R E

T A L K

Overcooking

a precious (and

pricey) piece

of meat like this

one would be

a sin, so invest

in a digital

thermometer

to alleviate

any guesswork.

The internal

temperature

will climb more

quickly toward

the end, and

carryover cooking

will spike it

further, so start

checking about

an hour and 35

minutes into the

roasting time.

( H O R S E R A D I S H -

A N D - P A R S L E Y -

S T U F F E D R I B - E Y E

R O A S T )

O R D E R O F

O P E R A T I O N S

Searing the lamb

before rubbing

it with the

oregano mixture

ensures the

meat gets a

beautiful golden-

brown crust

without burning

(otherwise the

sugars in the

pomegranate

molasses could

cause trouble).

( P O M E G R A N A T E -

A N D - F E N N E L - G L A Z E D

R A C K S P. 9 2 )


FOO

D S

TYLI

NG

BY

ALI

SON

RO

MA

N (O

PEN

ER);

SU

SAN

SPU

NG

EN. P

ROP

STYL

ING

BY

AM

Y W

ILS

ON

. LE

TTER

ING

AN

D IL

LUST

RAT

ION

S B

Y A

LAIN

A S

ULL

IVA

N.

B R A I S E D V E A L S H A N K S W I T H

B A C O N - P A R M E S A N C R U M B S

8 SERVINGS Theres marrow in those bones! Scoop out the cooked marrow and whisk it into the braising liquid, or eat it on a crust of bread with salt. You earned it.

2 33-lb. veal shanks Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 6 oz. thick-cut bacon, finely chopped, divided 12 whole cloves 2 medium onions, peeled, quartered 2 heads garlic, halved lengthwise bunch rosemary bunch thyme bunch sage, plus 2 Tbsp. leaves 4 bay leaves 1 cup dry white wine 1 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes 6 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 Tbsp. olive oil 1 cups coarse fresh breadcrumbs cup finely grated Parmesan

SOURCING INFO: Youll often see veal shanks cut crosswise

into osso buco, but around the holidays, we like to braise them whole for a dramatic presentation. Call in advance so the butcher sets aside the entire pieces for you. Theres no need to have them trimmed; the meat will shrink on the bones as it braises.

Preheat oven to 300. Season veal with salt and pepper. Heat vegetable oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Working in batches (do not crowd), cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown all over, 810 minutes; transfer to a platter. Remember: Browned meat tastes better, and this is your only opportunity to build that flavor.

Wipe out pot, reduce heat to medium, and cook two-thirds of bacon, stirring occasionally, until fat starts to render (you dont want it to get crisp), about 4 minutes. Stick cloves in onion quarters and add to pot along with garlic, rosemary, thyme, sage sprigs, and bay leaves; stir to coat. Add wine, bring to a simmer, and cook until reduced by half, about 4 minutes.

Add tomatoes, crushing with your hands as you go, then broth and veal shanks along with any accumulated juices. Add water just to cover; season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer, then cover and transfer to oven.

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 3 tsp. fresh lemon juice, divided Kosher salt 1 cup fresh parsley leaves with tender stems cup fresh dill leaves cup fresh tarragon leaves 2 Tbsp. chopped capers 2 tsp. caraway seeds

SOURCING INFO: Salmon will be closer to 5 lb.; arctic char

closer to 6 lb. Not all shops will have whole fish this large on hand; call ahead so they can order it.

SALMON Place a rack in the center of oven and preheat to 400. Season inside of salmon with salt. Stuff with one-third of grapefruit slices, lemon slices, dill sprigs, and tarragon sprigs.

Mix 10 cups salt and 1 cups water in a large bowl, adding more water as needed, until mixture is the texture of wet sand. Spread a thin layer of salt mixture on a rimmed baking sheet roughly the same shape and size as fish.

Top salt mixture with another third of grapefruit and lemon slices and dill and tarragon sprigs; set salmon on salt bed and top with remaining citrus and herbs. Pack remaining salt mixture over fish, leaving head and tail peeking out.

Roast salmon until just cooked through (poke a paring knife or metal skewer though the salt and into the flesh; it should feel warm to the touch when removed), 4050 minutes.

BEURRE BLANC AND ASSEMBLY While salmon is cooking, simmer shallot and wine in a small saucepan until only 2 Tbsp. liquid remains, 810 minutes. Whisking constantly, add butter a piece at a time, incorporating completely before adding the next piece, to make a glossy, emulsified sauce.

Whisk crme frache, grapefruit zest, grapefruit juice, lemon zest, and 1 tsp. lemon juice into sauce; season with salt. Reduce heat to low and keep sauce warm while you finish the dish.

Remove salmon from oven and using a knife or the edge of a fish spatula, crack salt crust and remove (it should come off in large pieces); let salmon sit 5 minutes before serving.

Meanwhile, toss parsley, dill, tarragon, capers, caraway seeds, and remaining 2 tsp. lemon juice in a medium bowl; season herb salad with salt.

Serve salmon with beurre blanc and herb salad.

Braise veal shanks, checking occasionally to make sure liquid is not boiling too hard and shanks are still submerged (add water along the way if needed), until meat is extremely tender and nearly falling off the bone, 12 hours. Let shanks cool slightly in liquid, then transfer to a platter or cutting board and tent with foil.

Strain braising liquid into a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat; cook until liquid is reduced to about 2 cups, 3040 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, cook remaining bacon in a medium skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until brown and crisp, 58 minutes. Transfer bacon to paper towels with a slotted spoon.

Add olive oil, then breadcrumbs to skillet, season with salt and pepper, and cook, tossing occasionally to coat and brown evenly, until breadcrumbs are golden brown and crisp, 810 minutes. Add Parmesan, sage leaves, and reserved bacon and toss to coat. Transfer to a small bowl.

Spoon some braising liquid over veal shanks and top with breadcrumbs. Serve remaining braising liquid alongside for pouring over.

DO AHEAD: Veal shanks can be braised 2 days ahead. Let cool in unreduced braising liquid, then cover and chill.

S A L T - B A K E D S A L M O N

W I T H C I T R U S A N D H E R B S

8 SERVINGS It can be hard to gauge whats happening under all that salt, but these times are accurate. If your fish is on the smaller side, take it out on the lower end of the range.

SALMON 1 56-lb. head- and tail-on salmon or arctic char, cleaned 10 cups kosher salt (from about one 48-oz. box), plus more 1 grapefruit, thinly sliced 2 lemons, thinly sliced bunch dill bunch tarragon

BEURRE BLANC AND ASSEMBLY 1 small shallot, finely chopped cup dry white wine cup (1 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces 2 Tbsp. crme frache 1 tsp. finely grated grapefruit zest 1 tsp. fresh grapefruit juice

T I S T H E S E A S O N ( I N G )

Need a simple yet head-turning

party starter? Just turn the page.

The Glaze

A sweet-spicy glaze is an impressiveand easyparty trick. Use the formula below, choosing one of each from the sweet, spicy, and boozy rows.

The Ham

Place one 1214-lb. whole cured, smoked, bone-in ham, skin removed, fat trimmed " thick, on a rack in a large roasting pan and add 2 cups water (this keeps drippings from scorching). Score fat in a crosshatch pattern, cutting about " deep. Brush ham with glaze (see right) and roast in a 350 oven, basting with pan juices every 20 minutes and tenting with foil if needed, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of ham registers 135, 12 hours (a 1416-lb. ham will take 1 hour longer).

Let rest 10 minutes or more before carving. Serves at least 20 revelers

Forget about every canap or thing-on-a-stick that you

were planning to serve at your party. Forget about platters. Forget about, like, toothpicks. All you need is a smoked bone-in ham. Order a good one (dartagnan.com is a fine choice), score, glaze, and bake it. Put that ham on a big wooden board, provide a blade with which to slice it (a carving knife, say), and a vehicle with which to devour it (Martins potato rolls, natch; order at potatorolls.com). Then watch your guests turn into a pack of wolves, leaving you with just a boneand the memory of the best holiday party ever.


P A R T Y O N A S C H O O L N I G H T

T H E B A S E C U P B I T T E R O R A N G E M A R M A L A D E

Holiday weekends book up fast, but Tuesdaythats when people really need to let loose. So throw a party!

The Fixins

With 1 Martins potato rolls (dinner party 24-pack size, please), 2 Dijon mustard, and 3 cornichons, your ham becomes a serve-yourself feast.

Ham is the star of our BA holiday

party. Watch the video at

bonappetit.com /holidays

S W E E T C U P Light brown sugar

Honey Pure maple syrup

S P I C Y1 T B S P. Spicy Dijonmustard

Adobo sauce Aleppo pepper

B O O Z Y3 T B S P. Dark rum

Bourbon Cognac

1 2

3

Belle Cushing, editorial assistant
http://dartagnan.comhttp://potatorolls.comhttp://bonappetit.com/holidayshttp://BONAPPETIT.COMhttp://bonappetit.com/holidays


A Candy Bowl Is Never OverkillWho doesnt like their rugelach and Christmas cookies with a side of peppermint snaps, salted caramels, and hand-pulled taffy? Joanna Sciarrino, assistant editor

Three favorites: Bergamot salt water taffy takes us away to the beach, $7; thesaltyroad.com. Goat milk caramels have a depth others only hint at, $8; bigpicturefarm.com. Peppermint snaps mix chocolate and mint (below), $26; williams-sonoma.com.

The holidays. Every night is another chance to imbibe. It adds up fast. So if you drink, you need rules. Here are my Dos and Donts of the season.

1 Do drink the punch. Just remember: It might be all cute and pink and bubbly, but its potent. Proceed with caution.

2 Do stick with one type of booze on any given night: liquor, beer, or wine. The exception: a shot and a beer.

3 Dont go crazy at work parties. I like a two-drink maximum. Keep business business.

4 Do put on a tie or a nice dress. Its amazing how civilized people will act (read: not get wasted) when they look good.

5 Dont start the evening with whiskey on the rocks. Go lightish with a highball or lower-alcohol aperitif. Campari and soda is my party starter of choice.

6 Do drink Champagne (see No. 11), but feel free to mix things up (literally) in the cocktail below.

D R I N K U P ! Watch Andrew Knowlton, a.k.a. The Foodist, talking holiday imbibing strategies at bonappetit.com/holidays

O N H A N U K K A H , G I V E T H E G I F T O F L A T K E T O P P I N G S . Warning: If you serve the following with latkes, your family might freak out. But if you dont serve the following (in addition to applesauce and sour cream), theyll never know what theyre missing.Labneh and pomegranate seeds Greek yogurt and maple syrup An herby aioli Prepared horseradish mixed with sour cream

Place 1 sugar cube in a coupe glass and soak with Angostura bitters. Add a handful of cracked ice cubes and 2 oz. Cognac; top with 2 oz. Champagne. Drizzle with oz. Chartreuse liqueur. Add ice until almost brimming. Makes 1

The Jimmie RooseveltA classic Champagne cocktail

Pretty much any candy will look

holiday-ready in this John

Rocha cut crystal bowl ($475;

waterford.com).

G I V E Y O U R S E L F A B R E A K Before all the craziness starts, look at your schedule and cross one thing off. Just opt out. Dont worry: That cookie-swap invite will come again next year, we promise. Christine Muhlke, executive editor

Drink Like T H E F O O D I S T

WA

RD

ROBE

STY

LIN

G B

Y S

HEY

NA

IMM

. RIN

G B

Y A

LDO

. DR

ESS

BY

REB

ECC

A M

INKO

FF. O

PEN

ER: S

HIR

T BY

ZA

RA

. TIE

BY

TOPS

HO

P.
http://thesaltyroad.comhttp://bigpicturefarm.comhttp://waterford.comhttp://www.williams-sonoma.comhttp://bonappetit.com/holidayshttp://BONAPPETIT.COM

The Cronut? So 2013. Introducing our test kitchens hybrid baby, the Babkallah. Braided like a challah for maximum babka-y chocolate swirl in every bite, it will make your original Houseguest Breakfast Plan (i.e., Theres Raisin Bran in the cupboard!) look a little, well, lame. Whats even better? Using it to make ultradecadent French toast.

D O A H E A D Dough (before rising) can be

made 1 day ahead; chill until

ready to use.

D O T H E T W I S T Braiding our

Babkallah is easy. For a how-to, see

Prep School, p. 127.

Get the recipe for Babkallah

French Toast at bonappetit.com

/holidays

http://bonappetit.com/holidayshttp://BONAPPETIT.COMhttp://bonappetit.com/holidays


Chocolate-Cinnamon Babkallah

DOUGH cup whole milk 1 -oz. envelope active dry yeast 4 large egg yolks 1 tsp. vanilla extract cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted, cooled, plus more cup granulated sugar 1 tsp. kosher salt 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more

FILLING AND ASSEMBLY 6 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped cup (packed) light brown sugar 1 tsp. ground cinnamon All-purpose flour (for surface) cup ( stick) unsalted butter, room temperature 1 large egg yolk Granulated sugar (for sprinkling)

DOUGH Heat milk in a small saucepan until warm. Transfer to a large bowl and whisk in yeast; let sit until foamy, 510 minutes.

Whisk in egg yolks, vanilla, and cup butter. Add sugar, salt, and 3 cups flour; mix until a shaggy dough forms. Knead dough on a lightly floured surface until supple, smooth, and no longer shiny, 510 minutes.

Transfer to a large buttered bowl. Cover and let sit in a warm place until doubled in size, 12 hours.

FILLING AND ASSEMBLY Mix chocolate, brown sugar, and cinnamon in a small bowl.

Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface; divide into three portions. Shape each into a 12"-long rope. Roll out each rope to a 12x6" rectangle about " thick. Brush with butter and top with chocolate mixture, pressing gently. Roll up to form a log; pinch seam to seal.

Place logs, seam side down, side by side on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Pinch logs together at one end; braid, then pinch ends together and tuck under. Cover loosely and let sit in a warm place until 1 times larger, 12 hours.

Preheat oven to 350. Beat egg yolk with 1 Tbsp. water in a small bowl. Brush dough with egg wash; sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake until top is golden brown and Babkallah sounds hollow when bottom is tapped, 3545 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack. 12 servings

Stream our BA holiday playlist this season at bonappetit.com/holidays

Forget Caroling. Be a Jukebox Hero This YearDid you know Elvis, Neil Young, and Johnny Cash did awesome versions of The Little Drummer Boy? I didnt, until my dad made me a holiday mix tape. Christmas music by artists I already lovenow a Roman family tradition. Alison Roman, senior associate food editor

M A K E A C L A S S I C M O V I E Y O U R N E W Y U L E L O GSome traditions youre born into. Others arrive through marriage. I used to view my in-laws annual binge-watching of White Christmas as amusing at best. Musicals: hilarious! Then my wife and I spent the holidays together, just the two of us. On Christmas Eve, I found myself raptand, yes, a tad mistyas Bing Crosby and Danny Kaye sang their way through postwar America, wooed the Haynes Sisters, and schemed to help out an old Army buddy. Sure, the 1954 flick is hokey, but sitting there with my new family, lights blinking on the tree as Crosby crooned Im dreaming, I got it. Watching a holiday movie embraces all the best parts of the season: cozy togetherness, ritual, and a shared love of manufactured nostalgia that, in the end, is actually quite moving. Scott DeSimon, deputy editor

G E T C R AC K I N G Stainless-steel

nutcracker and oak bowl, $195;

georgjensen.com

G O N U T S ( L I T E R A L LY ) Set out bowls of in-shell nuts for guests to descend upon pre- and post-meal (or while watching the San Diego County Credit Union Poinsettia Bowl). Trade up from that bag of mixed nuts sitting at the grocery store since June. Order from the farm. We like:

Oregon Orchard Ennis hazelnuts, $22 for 5 lb.; oregonorchard.net Nunes Farms almonds, $16 for 2 lb.; nunesfarms.com Old Dog Ranch Chandler walnuts (below), $7 for 1 lb.; olddogranch.com
http://georgjensen.comhttp://oregonorchard.nethttp://nunesfarms.comhttp://olddogranch.comhttp://bonappetit.com/holidayshttp://BONAPPETIT.COM

Youre making a zillion things, not to mention dealing with a house full of crazy people delightful relatives. Dont even think about elaborate lunches, especially when all anyone wants is a sandwich. So stock up on the best meats and cheeses from the deli counterthinly shaved mortadella, coppa, smoked turkey, provoloneand grab a Pullman loaf and some kaiser rolls. Then take it all to the next level with the condiments at right.

T H E R I G H T B U B B L E S A R E N O

T R O U B L EChampagnethe real stuffis the

one New YearsEve sparkler that

rules them all. Let David Lynch,

BAs Wine Insider, guide you through

the different levels of the worlds

best bubbly.

N O . 1Big party. Lots of people. You need a case (at least!).

The magic number for value is $40 a bottle. Look

to the worlds No. 3 brand: Nicolas

Feuillattes nonvintage brut

($35) lets you scale up affordably.

N O . 2Dinner party. Eight

people. Fancy. Go for something more serious. The Roger Coulon Brut

Millsime ($70), a deeper, denser,

food-friendly sipper crafted only from

the red Pinots, Meunier and Noir.

N O . 3Intimate night.

Fire. Couch. Time to dig

deep. The choice? Jacques Selosse NV Initiale Brut

($170): If you cant close after a couple

glasses of this, we cant help you.

Spare yourself the waxy taste of the meh gelt. Chicago-based Veruca Chocolates makes (kosher-certified) Gelt for Grown-Ups, airbrushed coins featuring ingredients like sea salt. $15; verucachocolates.com

ILLU

STR

ATIO

N B

Y C

LAIR

E M

CC

RA

CKE

N

W I T N E S S T H E M I R A C L E O F G O O D H A N U K K A H G E LT
http://verucachocolates.com


1. Bees Knees Spicy Honey $14; mixedmade.com2. Sir Kensingtons Chipotle Mayonnaise $6; vitacost.com 3. Victoria Amory Roasted Garlic Mayonnaise 3 for $20; victoriaamory.com4. Edmond Fallot Horseradish Dijon Mustard $6; thefrenchybee.com 5. Ricks Picks Hotties $7; rickspicks.com6. Peppadew Whole Sweet Piquant Peppers $9; murrayscheese.com

Sweet Potato Curr y

1 lemongrass stalk, tough outer layer removed, coarsely chopped 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, chopped 4 garlic cloves 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil Kosher salt cup red curry paste 2 Tbsp. tomato paste 1 14.5-oz. can crushed tomatoes 2 13.5-oz. cans coconut milk 1 lb. sweet potatoes, peeled, cut into 1" pieces lb. small or young carrots, peeled, cut on a diagonal into 2" pieces 6 medium shallots, peeled keeping roots intact, quartered lengthwise 1 red Thai chile, thinly sliced (optional) 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice Steamed jasmine rice (for serving) Thinly sliced scallions, basil leaves, cilantro leaves with tender stems, and lime wedges (for serving)

Pulse lemongrass, ginger, and garlic in a food processor until very finely chopped.

Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add lemongrass mixture and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, about 5 minutes; season with salt. Add curry and tomato pastes and cook, stirring, until darkened, about 3 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in coconut milk; season with salt. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until curry is rich and full of flavor, 2025 minutes.

Add sweet potatoes and carrots, then pour in water to cover. Partially cover pot and cook until carrots are crisp-tender, 1015 minutes. Add shallots and cook until potatoes are tender and shallots are soft, 1520 minutes.

Add chile, if desired, and lime juice to curry and spoon over rice. Top with scallions, basil, and cilantro; serve with lime wedges.

DO AHEAD: Curry can be made 2 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. 12 servings

Please Everyone, Even Your Vegan AuntThis one-dish wonder grants you immunity from even the most gluten-averse, meat-abstaining, fat-conscious houseguests. And the spicy vegetarian curry tastes as good as ever reheated.

1

2 3

4

5

6
http://mixedmade.comhttp://vitacost.comhttp://victoriaamory.comhttp://thefrenchybee.comhttp://rickspicks.comhttp://murrayscheese.comhttp://BONAPPETIT.COM


B O W L GA M E S Copper punch bowl,

$70, mugs, $20 each, ladle, $30;

alchemade.com

P R O F I T F R O M F A M I LY T I M E Who needs Secret Santa? My family plays Left Right Center ($9; amazon.com), a dice game simple enough for a five-year-old. Everyone ponies up $15, so its one case where the more relatives, the better. Higher stakes mean high excitement, especially for the person who wins all that cashIm looking at you, Grandma! Dan Aldworth, associate director, public relations

In a classic case of more is more, a beach-ball-size bowl of eggnog or puncheven a stockpot of mulled anythingturns any house into holiday central. But wait, you say, think about the children! We do. We always serve a bowl minus the booze for the kids.
http://alchemade.comhttp://amazon.comhttp://BONAPPETIT.COM


Cashew Nut Nog

1 cup cashews 1 cup skin-on hazelnuts (not roasted) 2 wide strips orange zest 2 cinnamon sticks 2 star anise pods 4 whole cloves 1 13.5-oz. can coconut milk 2 Tbsp. agave syrup (nectar) 1 tsp. vanilla extract 4 large egg whites* cup powdered sugar 1 Tbsp. cornstarch tsp. cream of tartar 1 cup dark or spiced rum (optional) Freshly grated nutmeg (for serving)

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: 2 pieces of cheesecloth

Combine cashews, hazelnuts, and 4 cups hot water in a blender or a large bowl. Tie up orange zest, cinnamon, star anise, and cloves in a layer of cheesecloth. Lightly crush spices with a wooden spoon to release oils and add to nut mixture. Let sit overnight.

Remove spice bundle; discard. Blend nut mixture 2 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve lined with a layer of cheesecloth into a large pitcher, squeezing out as much liquid as possible. Whisk coconut milk, agave, and vanilla into nut milk. Cover and chill until cold, at least 3 hours.

Just before serving, beat egg whites in a medium bowl to soft peaks; beat in powdered sugar, cornstarch, and cream of tartar. Combine rum, if using, and nut milk mixture in a punch bowl. Top with meringue and sprinkle with nutmeg.

DO AHEAD: Nut milk mixture can be made 5 days ahead. Keep chilled. 12 servings

A L WAY S WA N T E D A G I A N T S U B - Z E R O F R I D G E ? I T S C A L L E D YO U R B A C K P O R C HPut that deck or unheated garage to use. It can keep your pie chilled, your buttercream set, your whipped cream cake safe, your beverages coldand your actual fridge manageable. Stacey Rivera, digital director

S TA S H A S E C R E T W E A P O N I N T H E F R I D G E Fixing a cocktail isnt hard, but isnt it nice when someone else does it for you? We like the bottled ones from Californias Craft Distillers, like the holiday-appropriate St. Nick made with brandy and cranberry liqueur. $20 for 200 ml; caddellwilliams.com

FOO

D S

TYLI

NG

BY

ALI

SON

ATT

ENBO

ROU

GH

. PRO

P ST

YLIN

G B

Y BE

VER

LEY

HYD

E. L

ETTE

RIN

G B

Y TR

AVIS

W. S

IMO

N.

*RA

W E

GG

IS N

OT

REC

OM

MEN

DED

FO

R T

HE

ELD

ERLY

, PR

EGN

AN

T W

OM

EN, C

HIL

DR

EN U

ND

ER 4

, AN

D P

EOPL

E W

ITH

WEA

KEN

ED IM

MU

NE

SYST

EMS.

Get the recipe for Quince and Mission Fig Preserves at bonappetit.com/holidays

F E A S T O N S E V E N F A B U L O U S F I S H E S

You dont have to be named Sal to adopt the Feast of the Seven Fishes. But you do need a good fishmonger. Honolulu Fish Company (honolulufish.com) ships wild-caught fish like opakapaka, king salmon, and albacore tuna overnight. Now, mangia.

Be Prepared to Play Santa at All TimesThe UPS guy. The math teacher. And howd you forget your kids friends parents? Avoid beating yourself up and make a batch of giftable fig-quince preserves. Pack it in cute jars and youre ready to hand out gratitude. If theres some left over, all the better. Its the perfect boost for that sandwich buffet (see No. 12).

F I G - P O W E R E D For more on the

sweet indulgence of figs, see Prep

School, page 128.

F E E L I N G P U N C H Y ? Good thing. Because weve got plenty of holiday punches and mulled goodness online at bonappetit.com/holidays
http://caddellwilliams.comhttp://honolulufish.comhttp://bonappetit.com/holidayshttp://bonappetit.com/holidayshttp://BONAPPETIT.COM


Like Copenhagen before it, Oslo is fast becoming a destination for people who travel to eat. In the 15 years Ive been com-ing here, the change has been astonishing. I still love brown cheese and fish roe in a tube, but now I balance that with the best butter in the world (from Rros) and langoustine served over spruce vapors at two-Michelin-starred Maaemo. The dinner were going to tonightset deep in a fairy-tale forest near Oslos most popular ski areais a celebration of that change.

The subway ride takes 20 minutes and is packed with night skiers. By the time we arrive at the Oslo Vinterpark ski trails, there is a foot of snow on the ground and more coming down. This group is prepared: Norwegians may not spend a lot on fancy gadgets, but when it comes to the latest, greatest outdoor gear, price is no barrier. Everyone is wearing furry bomber hats with flaps that cover the ears, and some, boots made of seal. I dont ask where they got them.

There is one problem when we step off the train: the lavvo, or teepee, were supposed to be dining in is nowhere to be seen. Dont worry, one of the lantern-carrying hosts assures us. Its only a 45-minute walk. Forty-five min-utes. And yet nobody complains. They all just shrug, as if to say, Whats a little nighttime stroll through a snowy forest?

The mastermind behind our myste-rious holiday outing is Cecilie Dawes, founder of Food Studio, a sustainability-oriented think tank and pop-up supper club that brings people together to cele-brate food in unusual (and often breath-taking) settings. Theyve thrown parties on the banks of the Akerselva River and on an island in the Oslofjord. Tonight, its inside a teepee on a mountain over-looking the city.

There is a break on the hike in. Halvor Digernes, co-owner of Fuglen, a coffee and cocktail bar in Olso, hands me an aquavit toddy made with apple juice and carda-mom and star anise syrup. After downing two, Im hungry. Thankfully, the teepee is just up the hill. Be careful of the ski-ers, Im warnedespecially the kamikaze six-year-olds who slow down for no one.

When we arrive, we are handed vintage Norwegian sweaters to wear. The ground and benches are covered with reindeer pelts, and hand-drawn menus and recipe

cards are placed at each setting. It feels like the Red Wedding scene in Game of Thrones, minus the blood.

Christmas in Norway is a family affair, and foodwise, the whole country cooks similar things. This evenings dinner, pre-pared by Anders Braathen, head chef at all-day cafe Smalhans in Oslo, is represen-tative of the traditional meal. To start, we feast on dill-cured arctic char with lefse (like a potato-based tortilla) and herring in mustard sour cream on rye. For entres, families typically serve a whole fish such as salmon, pinnekjtt (lamb chops that have been salted, dried, and then soaked in water and cooked), or ribbe (pork belly with the ultracrispy skin left on).

Braathen spent all day making a per-fect rendition of the latter. Potatoes are roasted and topped with fenalr, or cured lamb, and an aged goat cheeseNorways answer to Canadian poutine. A cabbage and apple salad adds a touch of lightness to the meal, while several glasses of Voss Bryggeri craft beer and aquavit help cut through all the richness. (What vodka is to Russia, aquavit is to Norway. Dont ask; just drink.)

Next thing I know, Im full, a little bit tipsy, and speaking in broken Norwegian to chef Esben Holmboe Bang of Maaemo. Bang is Danish, but like me, he married a Norwegian; he now calls this country home. When I ask him what makes this food the next big thing, he pauses, does a shot of aquavit, and says, Norway has been through a period of culinary stagna-tion, but we are finally waking up. Were shaping our own unique identity through the land and its ingredients, and thats a beautiful thing to be a part of. We do an-other shot and toast our wives homeland.

It wouldnt be a Norwegian party without dessert and coffee. Tonight, its a sweet, creamy barley porridge topped with sour cloudberries and served with coffee from Tim Wendelboe, one of the worlds most respected roasters.

Its almost 11 p.m., and we have to make the last train. Halvor hands everyone a bottled cocktail made with aquavit for the long walk back. The snow is coming down heavier now. The moon is shining, making the landscape glow. All the skiers have gone home. Now its just me and 20 new friends, taking a midnight stroll in the snowy Norwegian woods.

Meet at the Majorstuen subway stop in Oslo at 5:50 p.m. sharp, dress

warmly, and come hungry. So thats what I do.

Soon there are 20 of us introducing ourselves to

one another, not quite sure what kind of adventure

were in for. Most everyone is Norwegian, but there are a few Swedes and Danes, a Finn, an Austral ian, and me. What the rest of them have

in common is food and the place they call home. They also, in one way or

another, make up the Whos Who in this capital citys

burgeoning culinary scene.

Star anise for hot toddies; Talor Browne of Tim Wendelboe brewing

coffee; host Anne Maurseth of Oslos No. 19 bar; Jan Svartsund,

chief forager at Food Studio, working on the day crew; the

teepee; the long hike to dinner; Smalhans sous chef Jon Marius

Sletten slicing fenalr; Herring in Mustard Sour Cream on Rye Bread

(see p. 114 for recipe); Aquavit Toddy (go to bonappetit.com/

norway for the recipe); Beer-Braised Pork Belly (p. 117); the lift at Oslo Vinterpark; Food Studio founder Cecilie Dawes setting the table.
http://bonappetit.com/norwayhttp://bonappetit.com/norway

Smalhans chefs Anders Braathen,

left, and Jon Marius Sletten arrive early to prepare dinner.

Does it get any more Scandi than

Food Studio volunteer Sandra

Arvidsson?


CURED CHAR Rinse char under cold running water; pat dry with paper towels. Mix salt, sugar, mustard seeds, orange zest, and lemon zest in a small bowl, then massage into char. Place skin side down in a baking dish; top with dill and drizzle with aquavit. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, pressing directly onto fish. Chill, turning 23 times and pouring off any accumulated liquid each time, until flesh is very firm and almost translucent, 24 days (it will get saltier and firmer the longer it sits). Thoroughly rinse char and pat dry with paper towels.

DO AHEAD: Char can be cured (and rinsed) 1 week ahead. Cover and chill.

PICKLED ONION AND ASSEMBLY Place onion in a small heatproof jar. Bring vinegar, sugar, kosher salt, and 2 Tbsp. water to a simmer in a small saucepan, stirring to dissolve. Pour over onion. Cover and chill until onion is bright pink, at least 8 hours and up to 2 days.

Thinly slice char and serve on lefse topped with crme frache, dill, pickled onion, and sea salt.

L E F S E8 SERVINGS Like a potato-y flatbread and great topped with cured fish.

2 large russet potatoes, scrubbed cup heavy cream 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into " pieces tsp. kosher salt 1 cups all-purpose flour, plus more

Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 400. Prick potatoes all over with a fork and bake directly on the rack until yielding when pressed, about 1 hour. When cool enough to handle, scoop flesh into a large bowl; discard skins (or nibble on them with butter and saltwe wont judge). Mash potato with a fork until only a few lumps remain. Let cool.

Mix in cream, butter, salt, and 1 cups flour with a fork until a shaggy ball forms. Turn out on a lightly floured surface and knead, working in more flour a tablespoonful at a time, until dough is smooth, elastic, and soft, about 3 minutes. Cover loosely and let rest 10 minutes. Divide dough into 12 portions.

Heat a dry griddle or large skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium heat. Working with 1 portion at a time and

keeping others covered, roll out dough on a floured surface as thinly as possible to make an irregular 8"-diameter round (perfection is overrated). Cook until dough looks dry and is browned in spots, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer lefse to a wire rack; let cool.

DO AHEAD: Lefse can be made 2 days ahead. Store tightly wrapped at room temperature.

C A B B A G E A N D A P P L E S A L A D8 SERVINGS Its amazing how much pork belly you can eat when you alternate with bites of this crunchy and cleansing slaw.

tsp. caraway seeds small head green cabbage, core removed, thinly sliced 1 green apple, cut into matchsticks 1 cup torn kale leaves 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 Tbsp. olive oil Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper

Toast caraway seeds in a dry small skillet over medium heat, tossing constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Let cool.

Toss cabbage, apple, kale, and caraway seeds with lemon juice and oil in a large bowl; season with salt and pepper.

P O T A T O G R A T I N W I T H G O A T C H E E S E8 SERVINGS Bcheron is an aged goat cheesesharp but gooey and oozy around the edge. If using fresh goat cheese, it will soften not melt.

3 large russet potatoes (about 1 lb.), scrubbed, cut into "-thick wedges cup olive oil 2 Tbsp. fresh rosemary leaves Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 4 oz. Bcheron or fresh goat cheese

Preheat oven to 425. Toss potatoes with oil and rosemary in a baking dish; season with salt and pepper. Roast, tossing halfway through, until potatoes are golden brown and tender, 2530 minutes. Pierce with a paring knife, or eat one, to make sure theyre ready.

Remove potatoes from oven and heat broiler. Crumble cheese over potatoes and broil until cheese is golden brown and bubbling.

H E R R I N G I N M U S T A R D S O U R C R E A M O N R Y E B R E A D8 SERVINGS Purists will tell you this just gets better with time, so prepare it in advance of your party.

4 pickled herring fillets, sliced into " pieces medium onion, finely chopped small fennel bulb, finely chopped 1 cup sour cream 2 Tbsp. whole grain Dijon mustard 2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh chives 1 Tbsp. finely grated peeled horseradish or 2 tsp. prepared horseradish 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 8 slices dark seeded bread or rye bread, cut into squares or triangles Fresh parsley leaves (for serving)

Mix pickled herring, onion, fennel, sour cream, mustard, chives, horseradish, and lemon juice in a small bowl; season with salt, pepper, and more lemon if desired. Transfer to a large jar; cover and chill at least 12 hours and up to 2 weeks.

Serve herring mixture on bread topped with parsley.

C U R E D A R C T I C C H A R8 SERVINGS This method works well with other fish. Substitute salmon or fresh trout for the char if you like.

CURED CHAR 1 whole large skin-on arctic char, (11 lb.), bones removed cup kosher salt cup sugar 2 tsp. mustard seeds 2 tsp. finely grated orange zest 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest cup finely chopped fresh dill 2 Tbsp. aquavit

PICKLED ONION AND ASSEMBLY small red onion, chopped cup apple cider vinegar 2 tsp. sugar tsp. kosher salt Lefse (see recipe) Crme frache and dill sprigs (for serving) Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)

The Food Studio gang, plus

guests, sipping toddies around

a roaring fire

T O G E T T H E

R E C I P E F O R T H E

A Q U A V I T T O D D Y,

G O T O B O N A P P E T I T

. C O M / N O R W AY
http://BONAPPETIT.COM/NORWAYhttp://BONAPPETIT.COM/NORWAY

Pjoltergeist Restaurant plays hip-hop, pours smart wines,

and serves Asian fusion mash-ups like king crab takoyaki

on cartoonish Moomin plates.

Mexican food in Oslo? Yes! Taco Repblica does great

tacos using sustainable ingredients. Fresh cheese

comes from a Norwegian dairy farmer; a Mexican chef

and imported tortilla press round out the experience.

No. 19s Jesper Hst is serious about cocktails but

keeps his bar down to earth.

The Oslo Opera House has something for everyone:

modern dance performances, classical symphonies, pop

concerts. Tickets are relatively inexpensive, but the building

itself is such a nice space, you can just go there and read.

Oslomarka, the citys surrounding forest, is great for camping in summer, foraging in autumn, and cross-country

skiing in winter. There are public huts throughout, serving everything from black currant

toddies to cinnamon buns.

For neat design objects and books, I love the

Norwegian Centre for Design and Architecture, or DogA.

Hotel Guldsmeden is the only organic hotel chain in Norway. Its breakfast of

fresh breads and fruit is reason enough to book a room.

Reported by Joanna Sciarrino. For more information,

see Sourcebook, page 132.

B E E R - B R A I S E D P O R K B E L L Y8 SERVINGS The closer together you make the crosshatch cuts through the skin, the easier this will be to eat.

3 lb. skin-on, boneless center-cut pork belly Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 star anise pod 2 whole cloves 1 Tbsp. coriander seeds 1 tsp. fennel seeds 2 12-oz. bottles stout or porter 2 cups unfiltered apple juice or apple cider 1 large onion, thinly sliced into rings 4 medium carrots, peeled, cut on a diagonal into 1" pieces cup coarsely chopped dried apricots cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 1 medium shallot, finely chopped Fresh lemon juice Finely grated peeled horseradish (for serving)

Preheat oven to 250. Using a very sharp knife, score pork in a tight crosshatch pattern to form " diamonds, cutting through fat but stopping at flesh. Season with salt and pepper, massaging into cuts.

Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high (if belly doesnt fit, cut in half crosswise). Cook pork, skin side down, turning once, until browned all over, 58 minutes per side (be careful, fat will splatter). Transfer to a plate.

Pour off all but 2 Tbsp. drippings from pot, add star anise, cloves, and coriander and fennel seeds, and cook over low heat, stirring, until spices are fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add beer and apple juice, scraping up browned bits. Add pork along with onion and carrots, adding water if needed to cover. Bring to a simmer, cover pot, and transfer to oven. Braise pork 3 hours. Add apricots and braise until pork is very tender but not falling apart, 12 hours.

Transfer pork, skin side up, to a rimmed baking sheet. Place vegetables and apricots in a large bowl; keep warm. Increase oven temperature to 475; roast pork until skin is brown and very crisp, 2535 minutes (the crispier, the better).

Meanwhile, pour braising liquid into a large saucepan and skim off fat. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer until reduced by two-thirds, 2535 minutes.

Heat butter in a small saucepan over medium-low, stirring often, until it foams, then browns, about 5 minutes. Add brown butter and shallot to braising sauce; season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

Cut pork into 8 pieces; serve with sauce, vegetables, and some horseradish.

A L M O N D - B A R L E Y P O R R I D G E W I T H F R U I T C O M P O T E8 SERVINGS Live in a magical place where cloudberries abound? Use them instead of the cherries, as they do in Norway.

COMPOTE cup sugar cup dried cherries, divided

PORRIDGE cup sliced blanched almonds, divided 4 cups whole milk cup pearl barley tsp. kosher salt 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 3 oz. white chocolate, chopped 3 Tbsp. sugar 1 cup heavy cream

COMPOTE Bring sugar, cup cherries, and 1 cups water to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring often and mashing fruit, until cherries start to fall apart, 1520 minutes. Add remaining cup cherries and cook, stirring, until plumped, 58 minutes. Let cool. Cover and chill if making ahead (up to 1 week), but bring to room temperature before serving.

PORRIDGE Preheat oven to 350. Toast almonds on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 57 minutes. Let cool.

Combine milk, barley, and salt in a medium saucepan. Scrape in vanilla seeds and add pod. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer, stirring often and adding a little water if mixture gets too thick before barley is cooked, until barley is very tender and porridge is the consistency of oatmeal, 4050 minutes.

Add white chocolate and sugar off heat, stirring to melt chocolate and dissolve sugar. Let cool. Remove vanilla pod.

Whisk cream in a large bowl to soft peaks. Fold into porridge in 2 additions; stir in half of almonds. Serve topped with compote and remaining almonds.FO

OD

STY

LIN

G B

Y A

ND

ERS

BR

AAT

HEN

AN

D J

ON

MA

RIU

S S

LETT

EN F

ROM

SM

ALH

AN

S. P

ROP

STYL

ING

BY

RU

NA

KLO

CK

AN

D C

ARO

LIN

E M

AG

NU

S F

ROM

FO

OD

STU

DIO

. ILL

UST

RAT

ION

S B

Y KA

RIN

A E

IBAT

OVA

. S

HO

T O

N L

OC

ATIO

N A

T D

REY

ER H

ENS

LEY

STU

DIO

AN

D O

SLO

VIN

TER

PAR

K. C

REW

FO

OD

BY

JULI

E IL

ON

A B

ALA

S F

ROM

MAT

BLO

GG

EN A

T G

RAY

ZIN

E.N

O. P

ROD

UC

TIO

N B

Y FO

OD

STU

DIO

.

Phot

ogra

ph b

y M

icha

el G

rayd

on +

Nik

ole

Her

riott

(cov

er).

Appl

e, th

e Ap

ple

logo

, and

iPad

are

trad

emar

ks o

f App

le In

c., r

egis

tere

d in

the

U.S.

and

oth

er c

ount

ries.

App

Sto

re is

a s

ervi

ce m

ark

of A

pple

Inc.

Am

azon

, Kin

dle,

Kin

dle

Fire

, and

th

e Am

azon

Kin

dle

logo

are

trad

emar

ks o

f Am

azon

.com

, Inc

. or i

ts a

ffilia

tes.

NO

OK

Col

or a

nd N

OO

K Ta

blet

are

trad

emar

ks o

f Bar

nes

& N

oble

, Inc

. Goo

gle

Play

is a

trad

emar

k of

Goo

gle

Inc.

BON APPTITStatement Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685 showing the Ownership, Management and Circulation of BON APPTIT, published monthly (12 issues) for October 1, 2014. Publication No. 504-750. Annual subscription price $24.00.1. Location of known office of Publication is

4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036.2. Location of the Headquarters or General

Business Offices of the Publisher is 4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036.

3. The names and addresses of the Publisher, Editor and Managing Editor are: Publisher, Pamela Drucker Mann, 4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036; Editor, Adam Rapoport, 4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036; Managing Editor, Greg Ferro, 4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036.

4. The owner is: Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., published through its Cond Nast division, 4 Times Square, New York, New York 10036. Stockholder: Directly or indirectly through intermediate corporations to the ultimate corporate parent, Advance Publications, Inc., 950 Fingerboard Road, Staten Island, NY 10305.

5. Known bondholders, mortgagees and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities are: None.

6. Extent and nature of circulation Average No. Copies Single Issue each issue during nearest to preceding 12 months filing date

a. Total No. Copies 1,662,111 1,647,175

b. Paid Circulation (1) Mailed Outside-County Paid

Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541

1,265,815 1,265,815 (2) Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions

Stated on PS Form 3541 0 0 (3) Paid Distribution Outside the Mails

Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS

103,986 100,394 (4) Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail

Through the USPS 0 0

c. Total Paid Distribution 1,369,801 1,366,209

d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution (1) Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County

Copies included on PS Form 3541 116,989 119,237 (2) Free or Nominal Rate In-County

Copies included on PS Form 3541 0 0 (3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed

at Other Classes Through the USPS 0 0

(4) Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail

9,127 7,629

e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution 126,116 126,866

f. Total Distribution 1,495,917 1,493,075

g. Copies Not Distributed 166,195 154,100

h. Total 1,662,111 1,647,175

i. Percent Paid 91.57% 91.50%

j. Paid Electronic Copies 44,545 42,615

k. Total Paid Print Copies (line 15c) + Paid Electronic Copies

1,414,345 1,408,824

l. Total Print Distribution (line 15f) + Paid Electronic Copies

1,540,461 1,535,690

m. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies) 91.81% 91.74%

7. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. (Signed) David Geithner, Chief Financial Officer

Already a magazine subscriber? For tablet access, download the Bon Apptit app and enter your subscriber number from the mailing label.

P R O M OT I O N

You can now subscribe to the print edition of Bon Apptit and enjoy the digital edition every month on your tablet for free.

Go to bonappetit.com/getba

It Pairs Perfectly

The tablet edition is available on the iPad, Kindle Fire, Nook Tablet, Zinio, Kobo, Next Issue, and via Google Play.


prep schoolT E C H N I Q U E S , T I P S , A N D M O R E F R O M T H E B O N A P P T I T T E S T K I T C H E N

E A S Y A S 1 , 2 , 3FROM P. 101 The impressively decadent chocolate-cinnamon swirl in the babkallah, our babka-challah

hybrid, only looks complicated. Once the dough is done, this ultimate holiday bread is no harder to make than a basic three-strand braid. Heres how to do it. CLAIRE SAFFITZ

1. Divide the dough into thirds. Roll out each piece to a 12x10" rectangle, brush with butter, and sprinkle with a third of the chocolate- cinnamon filling.

2. Roll each rectangle into a long rope and pinch seams to seal. Place side by side, seam side down, on a baking sheet; pinch together the three far ends.

3. Braid the strands, pinching near ends together and tucking under when done. Dont braid too tightly, as the bread will expand during the second rise.

P H O T O G R A P H B Y P E D E N + M U N K

1

2

3

FOO

D S

TYLI

NG

BY

ALI

SON

ATT

ENBO

ROU

GH

. PRO

P ST

YLIN

G B

Y BE

VER

LEY

HYD

E (O

PEN

ER).

P R E P S C H O O L


ILLU

STR

ATIO

NS

: BR

UC

E H

UTC

HIS

ON

(D

OU

GH

, DU

CK

); D

ENIS

E N

ESTO

R (

PORT

RA

IT)

The keyto holiday

shopping? Do as much as possible in advance.

Order your centerpiece meat from

your butcher a month ahead.

A week before, hit the market

for root veg, garlic, and onions.

Check staples that may need

restocking, especially

spices. That mace from seven years ago? Toss it.

And dont forget to

shop for the morning

after: Youre gonna need

syrup for that French toast.

Brad Leone, test kitchen manager

S H I P S H A P E

D U C K !

FROM P. 86 Want to send some deliciousness to far-off friends? Our holiday sweets are easy to ship. Stick lollipops in cellophane wrappers, put marshmallows in airtight jars (packed in bubble wrap), and layer brittle between sheets of parchment or wax paper in small boxes. Mail, and wait for the thank-you notes to roll in. CARLA LALLI MUSIC

FROM P. 92 Roasting a whole bird can seem daunting (the size! the fat!), but if youre armed with a little knowledge, a burnished roast duck is easily within reach. AMIEL STANEK

Find neat-o wrappers for your lollies at baking supply

stores or at michaels.com.

FROM P. 105 The honeyed sweetness of fresh figs is a worthy indulgence. When buying either black- or brown-skin varieties like Mission (A) and Turkish (B), or green-skinned such as candy stripe (C), look for unblemished fruits and ripen them at room temperature. Figs are great eaten out of hand but even better tossed in a salad, served with cheese, stirred into yogurt, or used as a jelly substitute in a PB&J. C.S.

BIG ON FIGS

USE THAT RENDERED FAT

Store this liquid gold in the fridge and use to roast potatoes and veg, sear lean meats (to add richness), and crisp up the ultimate fried eggs.

A.

B.

C.S C O R E I T Theres a ton of wonderful fat layered between the skin and meat of the duckmore than youll want to eat. So its crucial to score the breasts (1) and legs (2), slicing through the skin and fat, stopping before you hit the meat, to allow some of that goodness to render out.

TEST KITCHEN TALK

C H O O S E T H E R I G H T B I R D A Pekin (a.k.a. Long Island) duck is best for roasting whole: It is the ideal size, has sweet meat and good fat content, and is widely available.

1 2
http://michaels.comhttp://BONAPPETIT.COM

PHO

TOG

RA

PHS

BY

JAR

REN

VIN

K. P

ROP

STYL

ING

BY

ALI

SO

N R

OM

AN

.P R E P S C H O O L

Capellini en BrodoThe pasta absorbs the flavor of the broth as it cooks, and the pasta starches thicken the liquid to a lip-smacking consistency.

Cook 2 oz. capellini pasta and 2 cups Parmesan Broth (see recipe, page 43) in a large skillet over medium heat, stirring, until pasta is al dente and broth is reduced and thickened, about 3 minutes (if too thick, thin with more broth). Divide pasta between bowls; twist into tight nests. Add broth and top each with 1 large egg yolk, grated Parmesan, thyme leaves, and pepper. 2 servings

A.

D.

B.

E.

C.

F.

T H E S T A R O N T O PFROM P. 84 Upgrade from those Technicolor sugars in the back

of the cupboard. Vibrant toppers like edible dried flowers, festive candied herbs, and colorful freeze-dried fruits dress up any cookieespecially our Lavender Shortbread. Theyre easy to find, too. Most of the items above can be bought in the baking or tea aisles of well-stocked supermarkets. BELLE CUSHING

THE GOODIES (A) freeze-dried raspberries, (B) candied rosemary, (C) dried cornflowers, (D) Douglas fir tips, (E) dried hibiscus, (F) chopped pistachios.

A B E A U T I F U L R I N DFROM P. 43

Parmesan broth is a versatile player in our kitchen, lending a subtle yet funky depth to many things. But when we really want it to flex its flavor muscles, we use it as the base for this classic dish from Bologna. One slurp will have you regretting every Parm rind you ever tossed.


sourcebook

BAKE THE COVERLavender Shortbread with Fruits, Flowers, and Herbs p.84

APPETIZERSBeet-Filled Eggs p.64

Cured Arctic Char p.114

Herring in Mustard Sour Cream on Rye Bread p.114

Lefse p.114

Shrimp Olivier p.62

Yeasted Blinis p.64

BEVERAGESCashew Nut Nog p.105

Charred RosemaryInfused Vodka p.62

The Jimmie Roosevelt p.99

BREADSChocolate-Cinnamon

Babkallah p.101

Lefse p.114

Yeasted Blinis p.64

SALADSCabbage and Apple Salad p.114

Celery Caesar Salad p.16

Radicchio Salad with Sourdough Dressing p.46

MAIN COURSES

SEAFOOD

Salt-and-Pepper Shrimp p.50

Salt-Baked Salmon with Citrus and Herbs p.95

MEAT

Beef and Squash Chili p.44

Beer-Braised Pork Belly p.117

Braised Veal Shanks with Bacon-Parmesan Crumbs p.95

Horseradish-and-Parsley-Stuffed Rib-Eye Roast p.92

Marmalade-Glazed Ham p.98

Pomegranate-and-Fennel-Glazed Rack of Lamb p.92

POULTRY

Roast Ducks with Potatoes, Figs, and Rosemary p.92

Skillet Roast Chicken with Fennel, Parsnips, and Scallions p.52

PASTA

Capellini en Brodo p.131

Potato Gnocchi p.14

VEGETARIAN

Capellini en Brodo p.131

Sweet Potato Curry p.103

Bon Appetit 2014-12

Documents

Transcript of Bon Appetit 2014-12